11:30 am

Okay. I'm home. It's been all right. Just another new adventure. It was pretty weird waking up in the middle of the night Friday -- wondering where I was. I couldn't figure it out. Then I realized that I was home. I wasn't traveling anymore! I was settled. What a strange feeling! I already went to the library and took out travel books on Spain and The Sun Also Rises. I've talked to Paul, Bonnie, Steve and Bettie about moving to Spain. Could I really be serious? Things have been busy. Went to Marcia Wasung's wedding last night. It wasn't too bad. Talked to some cousins quite a bit. Cousin Michael Krakowski died on Friday. What a shock. Going to the funeral home today and the funeral tomorrow. Not looking forward to seeing the aunties in this situation. Doubleheader softball game today. It's been so hot and humid! How can I stand Detroit's extremes? It's been rough sleeping. Keep waking up at 4 or 5 am.

8:00 am

I'm going home today! How tragic! I can't believe I've reached the end of my journeys. On the train to Gatwick. I love this ride -- seeing all the chimneys! That's the distinguishing factor to me: England's chimneys. Suddenly, I can't think of anything to write. I've gone blank. I ended up walking around London yesterday. It was nice, but not as nice as I remembered. A lot of exhaust. I felt sick for the first time in a month! But I recovered. I did some window shopping at Carnaby Street and bought a shirt and some shorts at Mister Buyrights. Then I went to Covent Garden and Leicester Square. Just to observe. Very nice. I still felt a pressure to buy gifts. I did get a sweatshirt for Mike. God knows he deserves something for taking care of Dingo. Yay! Dingo! I miss him! I can't believe I've been gone a whole month. But then I can't believe it's been only a month! I'm glad I visited with Keith and Raj last night. Keith and I talked about film and video. He's a really good guy. They bought dinner for me -- Chinese. Great food.

12:40 am

I'm lucky they accepted traveler's cheques for the ferry to London. They don't accept MasterCard and the exchange office is closed. Pretty stupid, really, since Oostende is a pretty active station all night long. The ferry leaves at 2:00 am. I'll have 4 hours to sleep. Yippee! Tomorrow will be a long day. So will Friday! I'm pretty depressed about going home, but resigned to it. I have so many stories to tell! I've done so much in one month! I'm out of money. Must use my MasterCard in London. Time to get on the ferry!

7:35 pm

Same old story -- nothing's ever easy! I thought that I'd reached the end of my worries, but alas, I go to get money from my MasterCard and it's refused! I was pretty stuck then. With about £7 in my pocket and needed at least £10 for travel to Penge and Gatwick alone. Pretty annoying. Then I went to another place, and it was accepted. Thank God. Oh, by the way, it was pouring rain in Dover. And I had missed the 5:52 express, so I had to take the 7:03 instead, getting to Victoria Station at 9:30 instead of 7:30. Oh well.

8:30 am

I woke up on the train this morning, nearing Geneva. It was raining! How perfect! A trip through the mountains in the rain! This is shit. I only get hot weather, or cold and rainy. I want a refund! A woman told me it's been very hot in Geneva. Ha! Liar! I don't believe it! Only southern Europe for me now on. Who needs soggy mountains! I'll take a hot sunny beach any day! I did have chocolate and croissants for breakfast, however. Made me feel better. I'm overlooking Lac Leman now. The mountains should be beautiful in the distance, but I can barely see them. I walked down to the water to see the Jet d'Air, (it had stopped raining) but it wasn't on. Probably starts at 8:00 -- it was 7:55. But I had to get back to the station. Perfect. great way to end my trip, huh? I took the Tourist Bus yesterday in Barcelona. Didn't leave myself enough time, though. I did see Parc Guell with it's incredible works by Gaudi and the amusement park on Mount Tibidabo, but I didn't see Montjuic or the Olympic Stadium. Oh well. Barcelona was fantastic. Especially Antonio! I've met so many wonderful people on this trip! Here's my new idea. Get a video camera and offer to tape people at the Olympics and the World's Fair -- so they don't have to lug their camera around! Hmm. Possibilities! I need to learn Spanish better -- and French and German. Air conditioning and automatic sliding doors here in Switzerland. Too cold, though. The train from Barcelona to Cebrere was air conditioned, but I think it had lost it's freon. It was a long trip -- many stops -- but some fun people. An Australian guy talked about Pamplona. I guess people were jumping off a statue into the link-crossed arms of people below. One person was killed when he fell instead of jumped. A German (I had heard Swedish or Norwegian, too) girl died after being gored by a bull. So many experiences. God, I wish it were clear. I can tell this would be beautiful.

11:00 am

Maybe it's a good thing it's raining. Dreariness is easier to leave than sunshine. I'm absolutely not ready to leave, but I'm pretty resigned to the fact that I'll be on that plane in 48 hours. When I think of seeing everyone and telling them about my trip and seeing Dingo, and planning the rest of my life -- then it's okay to be going home. I'm thinking now of staying in Bruges tonight instead of going on to London, and taking a Thursday overnight ferry. That would be cutting it close!

5:45 pm

I keep thinking about talking with Antonio. I'm proud of the fact that I was able to communicate, but I wonder how he felt. I wonder if he felt I was kind of stupid. I know that's irrational, but I think that you do subconsciously think that when someone can't speak your language. In your own country. I had met a girl from Yugoslavia and she spoke English pretty well. But when she couldn't remember a word, she got all flustered and said how stupid she was. That's how I felt with Antonio. But I know I communicated much less effectively than that girl did. It caused me not to say as much as I would have liked. I guess there were some barriers. I am going on to London tonight -- if I make the connection in Brussels. What the hell -- I haven't missed one yet. I just don't look forward to London like I used to. It's a wasted day in my eyes. But I should see Keith. And maybe I'll do some shopping. I managed to spend $20 in Switzerland pretty easily. On what? I'm not sure. Lucerne turned out to be beautiful when it cleared up.

6:00 pm

I miss Mark from Leicester, His "I'm gonna shout 'Oi' in a minute," While walking near the stadium in Florence, we saw some kids writing graffiti on a wall. So Mark shouted "Oi." How funny. How British. I wish I had gotten his address -- and his picture. Florence may be my fondest memory of this trip. Aside from my Barcelona buddy. Getting on the wrong bus in the rain in Mainz. Going back to the hostel after the Hofbrauhaus in Munich. Meeting "Maude" on the way to Fulda. The anxiety of the illegal trip through Czechoslovakia. The warmth of the Polish family on the train on the way to Warsaw. The stoned times in Amsterdam -- staying out until 5 am! The Jazz Festival in Nice -- and running for the train! The dreary day at Dachau with Neil from Birmingham. What a nice guy! What an incredible journey this has been!

9:30 pm

I've been reflecting again. This kind of travel uses up every single resource you've got. Every bit of information you've learned in your life -- you use! All kinds of skills you never thought you had. You have to be so resourceful, yet so dependent. So active, so aware, so intense, so willing to learn, to accept, to adapt. It's like being an actor. Each city is a new film with a new setting, a new cast of characters. Everything changes - language, money, location, customs, expectations, people. It is a whole new world -- so different from the things you've experienced before, yet those past experiences are so necessary to survive. The challenge is incredible. The rewards, tremendous. You're changed forever. You've bonded with so many fellow travelers. All in the same boat, yet all so very different. Each with his or her own movie credits. The fact that you've touched each other's lives and make "guest appearance" in each other's movies is MIND-BOGGLING! One missed train, one changed mind, one minute's difference would change this whole world that you've created. Common goals -- varied destinations. Yet paths cross. You touch each other's lives. You become part of someone else's world. This is nothing new, of course. It happens in everyday life. But traveling makes it all so apparent because every chance meeting is so important. So intense! You're constantly creating history. Your own personal history -- and that of the people you join with.

I'm traveling to Brussels. I've been alone in a compartment for almost 2 hours now. Nice. This time is so necessary for reflection, for tidying up, for bringing together a myriad of thoughts. So many thoughts! Questions. Answers. Each day an adventure. Life lived to the fullest. So much energy! I've created much more than I've used up. I'm rarely tired (except at museums). My mind is constantly racing. Traveling is the drug for me. You see so much more -- and truly appreciate life and it's incredible potential. What a world, what a world.

8:00 am

It's kinda like saving the best for last. I met Antonio at the beach in Sitges yesterday. I first noticed him while I was in the water. He kept looking over at me. God, he was cute. When we left the water, he happened to be sitting pretty close to me. We just kept scoping out each other. It was very frustrating. I knew I needed to do something, but what? How do you do it? What do I say? Does he speak English? He went back into the water. I gathered up all the nerve I had and took the plunge. I went in after him. We swam near each other. It was obvious we needed to meet. Just go over and say, "Hola, ¿que tal?" Mike! So I did! I said I spoke little Spanish. He said he spoke no English. Shit! We came out of the water and he asked if I wanted to sit by him (At least I think that's what he said!) I moved. We talked. Rather, he talked and I tried to understand! I got most of it.

2:00 pm

I found out he's 21, a college student studying fashion, I think. It's his family business maybe. He's got 5 brothers and sisters and lives at home (darn!) We just sat on the beach, occasionally we went into the water and played splashy games. Very cute. But it was very uncomfortable. I said almost nothing. I just listened and sometimes was able to respond. Mostly, I nodded and smiled! Then he'd ask, "Entiendes?" and he'd catch me! He'd laugh and try to explain. Sometimes I just didn't get it. It was extremely frustrating. But it was a great challenge. And I enjoyed being with him. We'd go into the water and play around. He'd grab my foot or try to tickle me. I'd dunk him. Something was definitely developing, but what to do? Finally, around 6:00 pm, we left to get a drink. We talked about movies and music. It was fascinating, but still frustrating. I just wanted to communicate! But I did communicate and that was pretty impressive! Then we just walked around town. Kind like, "What do you wanna do?" "I dunno, what do you wanna do?" "I dunno." So we wandered. Somehow I mentioned the Youth Hostel and tried to explain the he couldn't spend the night, because it's a dormitorio. He didn't catch on at first. So we kept walking.

(edited!)

I made it to the Youth Hostel in time for breakfast (yuk). John from the Youth Hostel and I visited the Templa de Sagrada Familia today. Weird place. The spires are all in place, but the rest of the church is still under construction! It was great to see how a building like that is built. I saw a couple of other Gaudi buildings today. Now I'm on Las Ramblas. Thinking about going to the Olympics area and buying souvenirs!

10:00 am

I'm trying to figure out how to best utilize my remaining time. I'm staying another night in Barcelona. Then I'm taking an overnight Tuesday to Lucerne, where I'll spend three hours. Then I'll be on my way to Brussels and overnight to London, arriving Thursday morning. A long time on trains, but I'll get to see the Swiss Alps! That will be cool. Today, I'm going to the beach in Sitges. Last night, John, May, Ryan (all from Toronto), a girl from Frankfort via Yugoslavia and I went to see a laser light fountain show at the Royal Palace, but it didn't happen. Water shortage apparently. We found a cafe and had a beer instead. I could get to like Barcelona. We ran into a woman on the train who was just returning from Toronto. She said she loved the houses! How funny. The things we take for granted.

11:00 am

On the beach in Barcelona. I decided not to go to Sitges or one of the other beach towns. Do as the Barcelonans do. The sun's been in and out, so it's not too unbearable. I do love sitting on the beach. Haven't been in the water yet. I have an incredibly huge blister on one of my toes! My knees have been aching again. Went to the Picasso Museum yesterday. Almost fell asleep. I was so exhausted. But it was cool. A lot of his earlier "normal" works were there. I had planned to go to the hostel and take a nap, but no. I met a guy, John, from Toronto. We had dinner there together. He had taken a French language course in France and is now traveling -- his company gave him a leave of absence. Hmm. Wheels in my mind start turning! Maybe I should take Spanish in Spain for six months! Would the school district go for it? Should I do it anyway? I want to pursue my education anyway. Why not? I'll check into Seville. There's a World's Fair there next year, in addition to the Olympics in Barcelona. Spain's the place to be in '92. John told me about some great places in Portugal as well. He went to Pamplona for three days! Said it was an incredible party. People drank all night long, ran with the bulls at 8 am, and then crashed all day just to do it again. He said he just wore the same clothes and slept in the park for three days. What fun, though! Sorry I missed it. Could be one regret. I have to work something out. I'm not going to stay in Bloomfield Hills all my life anyway. Make the break! Ride the snake! John and I plan to go to a laser light show tonight. I still have a lot to see in town. We walked to Parc Guell after dinner last night. I love when I meet people! New location, new cast of characters! A WHOLE NEW WORLD! It's fantastic! I didn't realize that Barcelona and Catalonia were autonomous and bi-lingual. Signs are in Spanish and Catalan. It's a French and Spanish mix. Exits are called "sortidas" -- salida and sortie mixed. Very strange. I speak the language, but I don't. I have been able to get by with my Spanish. I can usually understand people -- when they talk slowly. Ahh, the sun's back out. Traveling is such an exertion. Always having to be moving or planning to move, or looking for accommodations. Very hot and sweaty all the time. No simple pleasures like playing cards or watching TV. More complicated pleasures.

6:00 pm

A panic is starting to grip me. I have to go home at the end of the week! No, I can't! Can't this last forever? The funny thing is, I'm probably spending less than I would at home! Just look at accommodations! Of course, I have no income this way. I left the beach at 2:00 pm and had lunch. Paella with oysters, octopus and prawns -- gross! Plus sangria, of course. Cost about $22. Splurge! I rambled up Las Ramblas, taking in the sights. Went to the cathedral, wandered some more. And ended up back at the beach. It's not the cleanest of beaches, mind you. But it is sand instead of stone! I am looking forward to going home so I can start researching ways to come back!

9:15 am

This has been a hellacious trip. Of course, I didn't get much sleep last night on the train. I contorted my body into every possible position, but my back and knees were killing me! Then we got to Port Bou, Spain, where we had to go through customs and change trains. They herded us into an underground tunnel to go under the tracks. Then we were stuck there -- in this 60 foot long tunnel. Everyone loaded down with backpacks and luggage. Some were smoking. It was horrible. I kept thinking of the Who concert in Cincinnati. Potential for disaster. Then the lights go out! Luckily, nobody panicked. What a stupid, dangerous situation. We were waiting to go through customs. It took over 45 minutes, standing in this crowded, smoky tunnel. Then I got on the train to Barcelona, but it doesn't arrive until 10:20 am, and it's not at the station near the Youth Hostel. This'll be great!

3:30 pm

Incredible fishy things at the market near Las Ramblas. Huge fish heads, turkey heads (skinned), live crabs and lobsters, as well as the usual fruits, vegetables, and meat. It looks like there's a lot to do in this city. Should I stay three nights? We'll see. Depends on if I meet someone. I'd like to get to the beach and see the night life, too. The hostel was hard to find. I was given directions to the nearest metro stop, then I was on my own. An awfully nice old man gave me directions. I was out and about less than an hour after arriving!

11:30 am

Maybe there's more of a breeze. Maybe it's just a cooler day, but it doesn't seem as hot here on the beach in Nice as it was in Menton. Another gorgeous day. I was going to go parasailing, but I don't think I will now. It's too hazy. I can do that back home, too, with some people which would make it more fun. I'm thinking of spending some time at the casino in Monte Carlo, though. I'd like to see Cannes, too. I got a good exchange rate on $100 on my MasterCard. So I'll treat myself to something. I didn't eat supper again last night. No money! Had a beer again instead. There aren't those guys selling "7-up-up-up-up-up," Coca-cola, and Orangina on the beach as I remember seven years ago. If I do this traveling thing, I should look into a motorcycle. It would be much easier to get around. Perhaps cheaper than the train, but maybe not. There is an absolutely wonderful French man laying next to me -- with his two small kids. He is gorgeous. Not so much the face, but the body.

7:00 pm

All right! I'm at the Nice Jazz Festival. "Grande Parade du Jazz." It took a long time for me to walk (and get lost) here. And I'm so bummed that I have to leave at 9:30 - just as the Andy Summers band starts. Shit! The 23:32 train to Barcelona that I had planned to take doesn't start operation until tomorrow night! How stupid! So now I have to take the 22:20 -- much too early! What can I do? I need to get to Barcelona tonight. Another adventure starts tomorrow! It's like a brand new life. In a new world! Time to make it or break it! Mary Tyler Moore -- Mary Richards! I have to get a cool Nice Jazz Festival t-shirt. I'm having so much fun. Oh yeah, I'm high! On the French Riviera! In a beautiful park, listening to jazz -- 3 choices! There are all sorts of people here. Old Niceans, young Americans, sophisticated French women, Italian jazz-lovers. It's everything. I can hear the other band in the distance. I wish this one would start. I like recording this. Journalism. I just wish it weren't so darn hot. So sweaty. Hot jazz!

8:50 pm

C'est magnifique! I met Emeline Michel, who was one of the performers earlier. She's from Haiti and does some great stuff. Good music with African dance added. This is a great festival. And the headliners haven't even started. It's okay that I'll miss them. It's been so fantastic already! It's such a more intimate (and safer) atmosphere than Detroit's Montreaux. There's a little of everything here. Some great horns! Some great food, too! I had eaten before, so I wouldn't have to pay expensive prices here. Oh well. After stuffing myself with fettuccini carbonara earlier, I had a Gran Marnier crepe and a native Nice dish -- mashed chick peas with olive oil and spices rolled out and fried in a wood-burning stove. Great stuff. I want a Belgian waffle, but I'd explode.

11:45 pm

I had to stay to see Andy Summer's band. I refused to be a slave to time. I was watching the Jazz Futures Band at 9:00, thinking I really should leave soon. They were so good. All the bands were fantastique! I'm so glad I got high so I could enjoy it even more. But I had to see Andy Summers! He was to start at 9:30. My train was to leave at 10:20 -- loading at 10:00. It took me 45 minutes to walk to the park -- I did get lost and had to walk uphill, though. The buses were running, but only sporadically. I had just spent my last coins on water, so I needed change for the bus. At 9:25, I got a beer, so I'd have change, went to the arena stage, and waited. And waited. Of course they were late. I kept thinking, "Come on, come on!" My knees were killing me, too. I thought, "I don't care if I have to run all the way to the station and kill my knees and feet. I'm staying!" They finally came on. 9:45, I think. I listened to one song and I left! And I ran. I ran and ran. I stopped at a bus stop. Next bus -- 10:05. Wouldn't work! I had to get my baggage out of left luggage still! I kept running. I was sweating like crazy. It was probably still 80°. I was soaked! I kept running. "I have to make that train!" What would I do if I didn't? I thought I could maybe just take a train to somewhere so I could sleep. Or I could sleep on the beach. NO! I was going to make that train, dammit! I kept running. I didn't dare slow down to look at my watch. "The train will be late anyway -- it's coming from Rome." I had to stop occasionally to look at my map. All odds were against me. A mad dash through the steamy streets of Nice. I got to the station at 10:08. The train was already there -- on time! I still needed to get my baggage. Success! I got to the platform at 10:15. But I still needed to find First Class because Second Class was very crowded and rowdy Spaniards or Italians -- I don't know which -- were hanging out the windows, singing and drinking. First Class was all the way down -- of course! I got there -- it was pretty crowded as well. I finally got the sixth -- and last -- seat in a compartment. Very uncomfortable, but I made it. Now I don't want to talk to these people. Here I barge in on them, a sweaty, smelly pig, having to climb over everyone and pile my luggage on theirs. What an oaf. I’m a smelly, sweaty oaf!

7:00 pm

Just when things seem at their worst... I meet some more nice people! I got to Menton at about 8:30 pm. Three guys looked like they were Interrailers, so I joined with them to try to find the hostel. Good thing. It was very hard to find. And I had no francs, the exchange was closed. And the hostel was full -- after climbing a mountain with full rucksacks. Well, we were out in a tent. Paul offered to sleep on the floor, Andrew paid for me, Andreas loaned me 50 francs for dinner and beer! They were so nice! Paul and Andrew are from Yorkshire. Andreas is from Stuttgart. They saved me from a very tragic night! I didn't eat because I felt bad spending Andreas' money. Bread, water, dried fruit and beer is all I had all day. Today we went to the beach. For lunch, we got some fruit, croquettes and pizza. I love French pizza. They make it the best -- the crust is flaky or something. It was so hot in the sun. The water was beautiful. I actually did quite a bit of swimming -- for me. Swam out to a platform with the guys, but I was exhausted. I really need to improve my swimming skills. And my climbing skills! Walking up to this hostel is very exhausting! But the view is breathtaking. The Mediterranean Sea in front, mountains to the right and rear. I went to Nice late this afternoon. Bought a ticket to the Nice Jazz Festival tomorrow night. $20 -- I hope it's worth it. I'll take the 11:30 pm train to Barcelona. I'm thinking of parasailing tomorrow morning. $33 -- worth it? Many of my friends back home will be on their way to white water rafting tomorrow. I'd like to see Monte Carlo and Cannes, too.

10:00 am

I hate meeting people, having a great time with them, and then leaving them -- without even getting an address or a proper good-bye. This is what I hate about traveling alone. I already miss Mark, Linda, Karen and Brandy -- my Florentine friends. I didn't even get a picture of them! I had to dash to get this train, so I didn't say good-bye to Mark. He was so nice, So were "the girls." So often, things just don't work out. I'd like to join up and travel with people, but they're going another route. I'm glad I stayed two nights in Florence. Last night, a group of Spaniards was singing and playing guitar, drinking. Mark and I sang along when we could. After Mark went off to bed, Linda came up and we danced to "The Bird." What fun. Wonderful friends who I'll never see again! How depressing! Mark and I went to the museums yesterday. Very expensive -- 10,000 lira each ($7.50) But the David statue is so incredible. We had lunch in the Boboli gardens -- after running into the girls at the Vivoli Gelateria, which serves "the best" gelati in the world. We came back to the hostel at 4:30 -- hoping to go back out to the American Express office, but we took showers and naps instead, then had dinner at the hostel. After dinner, Mark and I walked to the stadium in search of a Communist festival, but it was over. Partied at the hostel from 9:30 - 11:30. Florence is beautiful, but hot. And not very active in the evening. Motor bikes are everywhere! I'm surprised there aren't more accidents. the sight of the red tiled roofs from the Duomo is incredible. Mark is a vocalist. He's going to music school in Manchester next year. Works at the theater in Leicester. Very attractive -- or did I mention that? Nice personality.

Some needs for future travels: good sandals, learn German, research more beforehand work on assertiveness, stay at hostels more, watch with band. More thoughts: the peaks and valleys that you encounter emotionally can really be distressing. Great highs, tremendous lows! I was glad to meet a Swedish woman, traveling alone, who said she got depressed. Mark said he doesn't.

1:00 pm

Things I've learned: More understanding of the homeless. The pain of trying to find a place to sleep, not having roots, carrying all you own. The stares from people, especially children, when you speak a "foreign" language. How must foreigners in the States feel? I met two Torontonians at the Tourist Info office in Pisa and walked with them to the tower. They were really nice -- Jeff and Steve. The tower is pretty impressive to see. I'm going right on to Menton, France tonight. Not spending the day in Milano and taking an overnight.

4:15 pm

A little too exciting. These darn Italian trains. My train to Genova was late, of course, so I had to run to just barely make my connecting train. Luckily, it was at the next binario. But now I can't spend my last 3500 lira. And I have no French francs. Not good when I'm getting into Menton after 8 pm. I hope there's a cambio open and the hostel isn't full! The Italian seaside is beautiful!

6:30 pm

It was really tragic leaving Mark. We had boarded the bus, not talking beforehand because he went down to get his washing. I never told him that I was going to try for the 10:00 train, so I was getting off at the station. He got off at the Duomo -- our eyes met through the window. His questioning why I wasn't getting off. We waved. That was it!

8:30 am

In Florence. I had a really good day yesterday. I met some girls from California on the train. We wandered over to the Youth Hostel together. There, I met this guy, Mark, from Leicester, England. Another cute Brit! We went to town together. Went to the Duomo, up top where you can see the whole city and beyond. Breathtaking -- literally. 439 steps! Then we just wandered. It was nice. Everything's closed on Monday, so we walked and walked. Towards evening, we were looking for a place to have a beer. Not to be found. No outdoor cafes here. So we walked around some more. Tried to find the action. Finally, we got on a bus for the hostel, thinking that we could jump off if we found a place -- and we did. It was a small place with only one other person, but it was the real Firenze. Then we wandered, hoping to remember the way to the hostel, when we came across a gelateria. We had to have some more! We managed to find the hostel again -- and that's where the action was! They were selling beer -- much cheaper than in the bars -- and people were hanging out, talking. Talked with a British couple who had just been in Yugoslavia, where the Slovenians had just revolted. It was so cool to talk to people who were there and not just read about it. Traveling is fantastic. I hope Mark and I have fun touring the museums.

7:45 am

Yay, I don't have to wear long pants anymore. I again made the wrong decision on a very hot and sweaty day in Vienna. But last night I changed into shorts on the train and I'm not taking them off! I had a pretty restful sleep in the couchette. I met three Canadian girls. Last night, in the Stephensdom Square, I met a guy from Edmonton who was going to an outdoor Mozart opera film. I joined him. It was good to go, although I could only stay an hour in order to catch my train. Had I known what Vienna was like, I would've stayed. But it is expensive. Almost to Venice now. I had been in the square for some time last evening and it looked like a heavy cruising area. There was a really attractive guy sitting next to me. We kept looking at each other, but of course, I didn't make any moves. Then this other American did and he ended up talking with him for at least an hour. Probably slept with him! Gotta get some guts.

7:40 pm

I like Venice. People told me it's doable in a day. But I think I'll spend another night, although I am spending $32 at a hotel. It's a nice treat. Big room, big bed. I did my laundry this morning -- but no shower. The sink and bidet are enough. It was very hot and sunny today. I took a vaporetto to the Lido -- the beach -- and hung out there a while. That's what I can do tomorrow! Then I went to Piazza San Marco and walked back to my hotel by the train station. This is an expensive treat, but worth it. And they take MasterCard! Maybe I can shop tomorrow, too. That puts me in Florence on Tuesday -- good, because everything's closed on Monday. I love the people high up in the apartments just watching the world go by their window. Life from a window!

11:50 pm

I'm really depressed. Here I am in Venice, the most romantic city in the world, and I'm all alone. I haven't taken the initiative to meet anyone. That pisses me off! When am I going to take charge? I have in many ways, but not in meeting people. It should be so easy. I find it easier at the Youth Hostel. I don't think I'll get in at Florence. Well, I should at least try, god damn it! Enough of this pessimism. Remember Maude! Now I want to go on to Florence tomorrow. I was thinking of running away to Greece, but I think not. Too far.

8:00 am

Success! I RULE CZECHOSLOVAKIA! I was happy when only two of us were in the compartment. The girl was Yugoslavian. When the inspector came around, I showed him my ticket and he said, "Zbrodowice?" as if, "Why are you going there?" I explained (in Pig Latin Polish sign language) that my Eurailpass covered the rest of the trip. Fine. Then, as we get to the border, my nerves are on edge, although I had been keeping myself busy by reading. The Czechs came in -- one by one -- inspecting passports. After an hour's wait, we crossed the border. This time, more Czechs got on and thoroughly inspected the train -- they asked me to put my seat upright. It was stuck, but I finally managed and they looked under it. In the next cabin, they were knocking on the walls and ceiling. They knocked on the ceiling all the way through the train. It was 1 am. Finally, we continued our journey -- nobody had asked about the tickets. I felt better, but I knew it was still coming. My stomach was churning. I tried to sleep, but couldn't. At 2:30 am, there was a pound at the door and someone came in to inspect tickets. I was taken by surprise. I fumbled for my Eurailpass and gave it to him without even looking at him -- trying to be nonchalant, but feeling like I was giving myself away. He said thank you and gave it right back! What a relief! That was it! I had won! I was still so wired that I barely slept -- maybe 2 hours total. Crossing the Austrian border was a snap. No one has ever checked my bags. Luckily. Now I'm in Vienna for 15 hours. Time to explore! Very expensive here -- I paid $3 for a danish and tea that would have cost 50¢ in Poland! But I've reserved my couchette for Venice (no more train tickets - yay) and I'm ready to go!

2:00 pm

I'm sitting in the huge courtyard of Schloss Shönberg, overlooking Vienna. Very beautiful. This is a wonderful city. Very clean, very easy to get around, very accommodating to tourists and very picturesque. It's another warm and sunny day. There's a great breeze blowing up here. I'm getting so crazed, though. I'm trying to think of ways I can still do everything, including Switzerland. It just won't work. If I travel overnight constantly, I won't meet people in hostels. I should stay 2 nights in Venice. We'll see what happens. Vienna is very expensive. I can't buy or do much at all.

2:10 pm

Well, I've reached my point of total frustration! I was trying to get a ticket from Krakow to Vienna. Found out that it would cost $35 -- quite a bit more than I expected. So I went to get more money exchanged. I thought $35 was for a couchette, but it's for just a ticket. I had only $30, because I though it would be less without a couchette. I went back later a third time. I had heard yesterday that the Eurailpass was now good in Poland and Czechoslovakia. Nobody knew. I finally just wanted to buy the $35 ticket, but they gave me a $2.50 ticket to the Polish border. If the Eurailpass isn't good in Czechoslovakia, I may be in trouble. Still, I can't imagine it would cost $35 to cross Czechoslovakia. Oh well. I was rather distraught at first, but now I'm over it. This is one of those unexpected misadventures. See what happens next! I'm sitting in the Krakow square next to a man who's yelling at passersby. Fun town. I never seem to dress for the weather. Today it's sunny and hot -- no shorts on, of course. And my stuff is at the station. I bought a chess set and want to mail it home, but I think it would be too hard to figure out. I managed to get to Wawel Hill today, but I blew off the salt mines. I was supposed to meet the New York couple there. I wish that Swede from last night wasn't going to Auschweitz today. I would've liked to hang around with him. He had such big, beautiful eyes! And very friendly. He said good-bye to me at 7:00 this morning as he was leaving and I was still in bed. I wonder what I can expect from Austria. I'll spend more, I'll bet. I just hope I get there without a hassle!

5:15 pm

Still in the square. They've set up a stage in front of the clock tower and some little kids in traditional costumes are singing songs. Very musical city, this Krakow. This could really be fun later on if there are real bands. What more could I ask for? I'm trying to figure out if I can go to Pamplona for the running of the bulls. It could work out after Barcelona. Last day is July 14, when I'd leave Barcelona anyway. Could be fun! I wish I had a video camera. These kids singing would be great for an international "Those Bloomin' Kids."

7:45 pm

This polka band playing in the square is playing "Melody of Love." Of course! These Poles sure love their ice cream -- lody. Everyone is eating it. There are stands all over the place. I'm bummed that there's not another band on the stage. What a waste. Getting nervous (again) about Czechoslovakia! I'm always so unprepared! Now, when I have nothing but time, I don't have my book, "It's Always Something" by Gilda Radner. It's a very good book. I'd enjoy reading it now, but that would mean going back to the station and getting my stuff out. I'd rather be in the square.

11:00 pm

Reflections of Poland. A country unprepared for mass tourism. When you get off the train at Osweicim, there are no signs or anything telling you how to get to the concentration camps. Very few people speak English. One woman at the market in Warsaw was freaked when I spoke English after she had been showing me her Soviet toys and explaining something in Polish. She looked at me as if I were from Mars! Even Warsaw is not prepared for tourists. Everything is so cheap, though. 15¢ for a rose! $3.50 for a pierogi and beer dinner at an Armenian restaurant. And traveling is incredible. I'd bet a trip across the entire country would be under $10. Maybe $8. Krakow to the border is $2.50. Hostels have co-ed rooms. Pretty dirty, though. And no toilet paper! Same with the trains. No paper towel, or no soap, or the water doesn't work. This is the first time I've listened to my music. It makes me feel happy and safe when I'm scared about Czechoslovakia!

11:00 pm

Yay! I met some people today. It had been a while since I'd had a conversation. When I got back to the hostel at 9:30 pm, a Swede in my room started a conversation. He told me of his year-long travel in SE Asia. How he found Tibet enchanting, the Chinese rude, Thailand beautiful. He was so cute, so excited about his adventures. He's traveling 2 weeks in Poland. Then a British couple, biking around the world for 3 years, came in. We talked about Auschweitz mostly. They're biking and raising money for charity. Incredible people! The other guy in the room, an American, said he was taken in by a Polish family for 3 days. What adventures! Went to Aushweitz. Very intense. Very different from Dachau. Everything's intact. And they have human hair, shoes, glasses, hairbrushes -- all there on display. Very arresting. It was really overwhelming. I felt weak quite a few times. Like upon seeing the standing cells, where four people stood for days, crushed against each other. I saw two Wasinskis on the list of those killed. Wow. Talk about having it hit home. I met a couple from New York (he's Australian) and we talked quite a bit on the train back and at dinner. They're traveling around the world for a year. All these people doing it! Their tickets cast $2800 for 20 flights! That's great. They said they didn't like the uncleanliness of Asia, or the thievery. They saw India and Nepal -- had a great personal tour of the Taj Mahal. I want to do it all! Had a good pierogi dinner tonight. Wish I had more time to write this!

11:00 am

I got to see some Polish countryside. And, yes, it was just as I envisioned. Little old ladies in their peasant outfits working in the field. I even saw a haywagon overloaded with hay, being pulled by a horse -- just like that John Constable painting. Men are cutting hay with a sickle. Beautiful. It's little chillier and cloudy today. Of course -- I wore shorts. I think I'll spend only one night in Krakow, take a night train to Vienna, spend Friday there, take a night train to Venice and spend two days (one night) there.

3:15 pm

Krakow is absolutely lovely. It's the Poland I expected to see -- very old, beautiful buildings, a central town square, vendors selling wood items for cheap! I just wish I could carry everything I'd like to buy. They have great chess boards for $5 - $25. Incredible. Great Polish and Krakowian items, too. It'd be great for the family, but... Can't carry it! Maybe I will spend two nights here! Especially if I want to see Auschweitz. I'm sitting in the lobby of the hostel waiting for someone to come. People (everyone but the receptionist) are very helpful.

6:00 pm

Doesn't quite fit. I'm sitting in an outdoor cafe in the main square in Krakow and there's a guy playing an electric guitar for money. People seem to enjoy it, although he's not getting a lot of money. It's been a pretty lonely day. Just wandering around. I found the Youth Hostel all right. It's open all day so I didn't need to check my bag. Oh well. No Americans here. Of course, it rained a bit. Very few people in shorts! I've been stared at quite a bit. Especially when I put on my emergency poncho! The church in the square -- St. Mary's, I think -- plays a bugle call on the hour, and it stops abruptly. It commemorates the time when a watchman sounded an alarm and was struck in the throat by an enemy arrow. As far as tourist areas go, there are not a lot of people here. Pretty uncrowded. Nice. I managed to order a tea with milk. Now if I could figure out how to order that great-looking ice cream dish that someone next to me has! I wish I had spent more time in Hamtramck!

7:20 pm

Just sat out (stood out?) another rain squall. "Here Comes the Rain Again" has been running through my mind on this trip. So has "Train to Kokomo" by the Neville Brothers. I was singing "Life From a Window" by The Jam on the trip from Warsaw to Krakow. The square here has an eerie light now after the rain. A band of old men has been playing guitar and accordion music -- everyone's gathered around. I feel like I'm at the PNA Hall. Now they're playing a polka -- look out! Shit. Here's the rain. Should've gone to the hostel when I had the chance.

9:30 pm

Made it back to the hostel. And even bought my ticket to Osweicim (Auschweitz) tomorrow. Everyone in my room is already in bed. So much for meeting people. There are a million kids running around this place. I know, what do you expect for $5? I don't like the fact that everyone in the bathroom can watch you shower, either. High school all over again. Oh, oh. My trip's half over! That's great, though. Many more adventures await me! I spent 45¢ for tea and danish, $1.20 for a 2 liter drink, 5¢ for a roll, $1 for pizza and beer. Total food bill: $3.15. Europe on $10 a day! Every time that I think someone might be an American, they start jabbering in some weird language. It's very annoying!

6:00 am

Darn that sun! Since it rises at 4:00 am, it's not easy to sleep in on the train. The family left at 4:30, but now I'm awake. Should be to Warsaw in an hour. Interesting that things are written on this train in four languages -- and English isn't one of them. German, French, Russian and something else. This is a DDR train -- it has a map of the old East Germany on the wall.

11:00 am

I've discovered the thriving marketplace outside of the Warszawa Centralna station. It's basically a large flea market. Mostly junk, but some Russian junk that's pretty interesting. They cook and sell kielbasa, too -- of course! I bought a t-shirt for $2. Big spender. Funny thing is, the train trip from Warsaw to Krakow cost almost as little -- zts. 36400 or $3.20. There were some Soviet medals for $3.00 that I might buy. Some nice sweaters, too, but I'm not going to carry them! It's hot and sunny today. I managed to find the Youth Hostel with only one wrong turn. Pretty good. I was settled and out and about by 9:15. Wandered around the train station for a while, just observing. Bought my ticket to Krakow and started at the market. I've got about half more to go. It's very difficult trying to but things here! I love the little Polish Fiats!

12:30 pm

These damn zlotsys. They're so confusing. Too many zeros. I still have over 600,000 left. And I bought a big Pepsi, a danish, a kielbasa, 2 toys, a shirt and a train ticket. Total = $9.00! Pretty incredible. But it's so frustrating using bills worth only 4¢. More than once, I gave the vendor hundreds instead of thousands. Silly me. I'm so confused! And it's only 12:30!

3:30 pm

How rude! I was sitting by the river on this makeshift platform, trying to get high, but couldn't light the pipe because suddenly there were tons of people coming and going and the wind was blowing something fierce, so I was writing a postcard to Matt and Eli instead when a truck pulls up, these guys jump out and start taking the planks away around me, never saying a word to me. Well, I figured I'd better disperse the pot and leave, So I did. I'm still on the river. The sun is shining. It's been a beautiful day. On the way to the river, I stumbled across an Andy Warhol exhibit at the Museum Nadrowe. Cost 50¢ to get in! This place is great!

9:40 pm

Youth Hostels are great. This young Polish couple came up to me and asked if I had an alarm clock they could borrow, because they needed to get up early. No problem. Unfortunately, the alarm is so loud it will wake up the entire hostel at 5:00 am. How fun! Did I mention that it's on the fifth floor? I hope the hostel in Krakow is open at 12:30 when I get there, but I'm sure it isn't. I'll ask at the desk if they know.

11:30 am

Berlin is a weird city. All sorts of crowds and demonstrations. I got in at 6:30 am and it took 3 1/2 hours before I was settled and ready to explore. I had to get over to Lichtberg Station to store my pack, because that's where my train leaves from. But there was no money exchange open, so I went to Hauptbanhof and there was some kind of demonstration going on. The police were out guarding this one platform where the next train was going to Moscow. Not sure what was going on, but I took a picture. Finally got money and a ticket to Warsaw! Can hardly wait! Berlin is a pretty dirty, smelly city so far. I saw the Brandenburg Gate and crossed the river to where the wall is still standing. It was pretty intense. There are markers for all those who died crossing. Even 2 in 1989. It was strange that no other tourists crossed the river to touch and be by the wall. I wouldn't have missed it. The eastern side is truly gross. The smell of diesel is giving me a headache. I hear Poland is no better. I don't know why I expected to hear more English here! I'm not sure what I'll do the rest of the day here. There's a Checkpoint Charlie Museum. And I'll have to stroll down to main street -- Kurfurstendamm. Sleeping in the couchette last night was pretty nice. I just have a seat tonight.

2:30 pm

I'm sitting in a beautiful park in the middle of Berlin -- the Tiergarten. It's almost a woods, really. A lazy river running through. Birds chirping, geese flapping in the water, bells chiming. And it's all so green and peaceful. And strange birds that I've never seen before. How beautiful. Only the bugs are pretty bad. I guess Berlin's a city of contrasts. I just left the scene of tourists chipping away at the wall, while a construction crew nearby tries to eliminate the last traces of it anyway. I got a piece of it. It was so cool just touching it and reading the graffiti. Such a buzz.

6:00 pm

I thought coming to Aleksander Platz would be fun. Looked like an active place in the postcards. Well it sure is. There's some protest about East Germans losing their jobs and their welfare as of today. Luckily, one of the protesters spoke English and explained it to me. I suppose it's related to this morning's protest, but who knows? All is not well in re-unified Germany. She said that they wanted DDR to stay Communist. I suppose it would be difficult to wipe out 45 years of a political system in 1 1/2 years. Pretty interesting city, this Berlin. I spent he afternoon on Ku-damm Strasse. A very bust retail area. Damn, these little black bugs are terrible! I've been feeling very lonely today. And very nervous about Poland.

It's very interesting. Most "revolutionaries" in the States are younger. Here, there are many older people marching. They're the ones who've grown up and lived with Communism. Old habits are hard to break, eh? There are hundreds of people marching! I love a good demonstration!

7:30 pm

I guess Maude was right. You don't need language to communicate. An old German man came up to me and started talking about the several men who are playing "the shell game" under a viaduct at Aleksander Platz. He said he didn't understand how they did it, or why people fell for it -- or something like that! I didn't let on that I knew not a word of German. I just kept nodding and smiling. I followed the march to the Deutch Bank. (I think the DM had devalued in the past year.) It was fun being at the forefront. What did I care? I'm a foreigner. I'll be in Poland in just hours.

11:00 pm

Almost to the border. We just spent 45 minutes at the station in Frankfurt (Oder) getting passports checked. Mine was checked four times before it was stamped. When the Polish guard first came in I was utterly befuddled. He spoke in Polish of all things! I think he asked if I had anything to declare, but I hadn't a clue. I just meekly said, "I don't understand." I was so intimidated! But now I'm on my way and there's only two of us in this compartment, so I'll be able to stretch out and sleep. Good deal. It was worth the risk of not getting a couchette for another $15. Poland!!

11:50 pm

Well, I won't be able to stretch out and sleep. I forgot that there are other stops on the way to Warsaw. And long ones! We stayed in Katowice another 45 minutes and we've been at this station for 15 minutes already. Our compartment has been invaded by 2 lovely grandparents and two little Polish girls. The man looks like Pope John Paul and the woman has a wonderful blue rinse. She's feeding the girls tomatoes and cucumbers. And they're all speaking Polish! It's surprising what a warm, happy feeling I have. Memories of my childhood, visiting the Polish-speaking relatives in Hamtramck. They didn't speak it often, but I do remember!

5:00 pm

I'm getting into that complacent mood again. Just sitting around at the Kays without a care in the world. I'm feeling a lot of anxiety towards going to Berlin and Poland. Such a challenge once again. I'm glad I at least had the chance to recharge my batteries -- my body's as well as my shaver's!

11:10 pm

I'm at the Fulda Banhof waiting for the 11:32 to Berlin. On the road again. What a nice visit I had with the Kays. I miss them! I'm feeling anxious again. My stomach's bothering me -- or was it Lark's cherry pie? My sleeping berth reservation says car 699, but the sign here says there is none. There's a 299. Hope it's not a problem. Just what I need! It's coming from Frankfurt, so it'll be packed. It was fun playing Dr. Mario with Lark and Rhys. What a buzz. Good-looking guys on base! We went to the Volksfest for a while. Not very big, but the kids loved it. It was a nice day today. I went out to the park with the kids earlier. I'm starting to have doubts about quitting my doubts about quitting my job and traveling extensively. I'd have to do it with someone, I think. Someone who's very free-spirited. Must keep a positive attitude towards it. It can be done. This is a very quite station. I can't see anyone else. Very eerie. I wish I had filled up my wineskin with water before leaving. Everything's closed here. I tried calling Becky, but the MCI number has been busy. Probably a lot of GIs calling home. I hope everything's okay with Dingo. I try not to worry -- actually, I rarely think of it! Just when I see other dogs. Ten minutes until the train's here.

10:15 pm

Very cold, but it didn't rain today! I actually had a hot breakfast -- bacon and eggs. It's been a weird day. Surrounded by all these English-speaking people. American stores on base. Very strange after the past week. And knowing that I have three more weeks of traveling left! We spent the day doing some shopping. Stopped by the Volksfest to get a pizza. The other pizza place was closed and they were delivering to the Fest. So we went there against Lark's protests. They were out, so we waited. And froze. Then we came home and had pizza and Pepsi. All for tradition. Then tonight we went to see Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles II. Strange day. Tomorrow night I'm going to Berlin, then on to Poland!

2:45 pm

All I needed was a tea. Nein, nein. Tee ist kaput! Great. Guess what? It's raining again. Surprise! I'm at the Deutches Museum. It really is pretty cool. Science and technology stuff. A lot of hands-on physics and chemistry experiments. A rather small section on radio and TV, and many stations weren't working. And much of it is in German only. The photography area was very good. Showed the developing process. Had some great optical illusions, too. This is a huge place. It would take several days to go through it all. And I'm tired and achy already. I didn't see Neil this morning. Actually, I did -- as he was leaving. I don't know if he saw me, but I decided not to pursue the issue. It was nice spending a couple of afternoons with him. Last night, I thought (a lot, since I couldn't sleep) about quitting my job and traveling. Either with a video camera or without. I wonder if I could manage an under-26 Eurailpass. That would help a lot. I need to pursue it immediately upon my return if I'm to do it. Otherwise, I'll fall into that horrible everyday trap of monotony. I need to convince Matt or Jenny or Neil or someone to come with me. I'd need to sell or store my things and find a home for my dog. It can be done, you know. But then again. There are these lonely times I'd have to worry about. I've met people so far, but you never know what tomorrow will bring. Every day is a struggle as well as an adventure. That just about sums up this type of traveling. I just wish the weather would clear up! Maybe I could work until November and spend the winter in Spain and Portugal. Then really travel through Europe! Maybe I could work something out through work. Yeah, an exchange thing. That's it!

6:45 pm

Life is so wonderful! I've just met a wonderful 85 year old woman from Chicago while on the train to Fulda. She's Maude from Harold and Maude! I heard her speaking German-English to a couple on the train -- and I could actually understand what she was saying. When they went to dinner, we began talking. She told me dozens of stories. All about Polish and German history. About what to do in Krakow -- although she's never been. She and her husband are art aficionados and she's so knowledgeable about so much history. She talked about how the Russians love Peter the Great, she talked of Nicholas and Alexandra, Polish counts, German nobility. Then we talked about Bush. She says Hell's to good for him. She compared the Gulf War to W.W.II when Roosevelt gave Berlin to Stalin. She's so sure of her facts! She had on a sharp black outfit with a flowered skirt and a wonderful black beret. A silver pendant hanging from her neck. When I told her I was of Polish stories. In 1917, a Polish count came to Chicago to raise funds for W.W.I. She described him as tall and handsome. In 1939, she was on the St. Lawrence River on the Chicago tribune yacht -- she was a journalist -- when a small Polish submarine surfaced. The crew had escaped after the Nazis invaded. They were beautiful in their naval uniforms. Before she left, she said that meeting me was her third "Polish story" -- 1917, 1939 and 1991! We had started talking about the Gulf War and how Europeans view Americans. I expressed my views, so similar to hers, about how Americans are so impressed with personality and not substance. How universities are no longer centers for independent thinking. She was impressed by my views. She asked how old I was. She said she had not, in 7 years of coming to Europe and meeting young Americans, ever met someone like me -- who is willing to listen and can express my views. She asked if I had something in my background that caused me to be "detached." I told her no, my father wasn't an intellectual or anything, but he was involved as an outsider on the inside of politics. She knew of Hamtramck. She loved the story. I added that my dad raised 7 kids alone and she said I must write his story and send it to Reader's Digest. They'll know what to do with it. I didn't even mention his veteran's activities. Maybe she's right. She's really got me thinking. It would be a wonderful tribute to my dad. What a remarkable experience it was to have met her! We agreed that it was more than chance that we met -- it was destined. She said this was the reason she came to Europe. To meet me and encourage me. I have to agree. This is exactly what this kind of traveling is all about. Taking risks, being alone, meeting people by chance, learning, growing. Being inspired! She is an inspiration! What a wonderful life she's led. How many lives has she touched? I don't even know her name, but she's an important factor in my life. She was so positive, so encouraging. Everyone needs to know someone like her. She says it's the people like my dad, not politicians, who will change the world. Tears came to my eyes. Was it because of the memories of my father or because of meeting this wonderful woman? Life is wonderful! The German countryside is marvelous. Trees all around, rolling landscape, beautiful little villages centered around a church. There is, of course, too much rain! I guess traveling First Class isn't so bad after all. I can meet interesting people anywhere. You just have to make yourself available. I guess I should've mention the German fraü who was making faces all the time "Maude" was talking to her husband. When she left, they both rolled their eyes and I chimed in "quite a character." But I say in such a positive, complimentary way. People like her make life worth living. How ironic that I meet her on the way to see Lark -- one of my earliest eccentric influences! It all fits! It really does.

10:50 pm

Back home again. that's what it feels like anyway. I'm at the Kays' in Bischofsheim. It really is just like I saw them last week -- not last year. Even their house seems the same, because it's the same furniture. We went to McDonald's in Fulda. Everything's so Americanized there because it's near another base. Pretty weird after hanging out with foreigners for a week. It's really culture shock. I forgot what it can be like staying with 3 kids. It's hard for me to stay so pumped up. On the ride home, we saw a great rainbow! We stopped and took pictures of Rhys and Saira chasing it! A.J. is so big. He was only six months old when I saw him last! He has Rhy's eyes. My left knee and right Achilles' tendon really hurt. I feel so old. Oh, I forgot. "Maude" said she felt ten years younger after talking to me.

7:30 pm

Some of the characters I've met: Sue, an Australian who is traveling around the world for 3 years. She's hitting every continent and will work for a time in the U.K. and the States. She was one of the "Hofbraühaus-ers." Scotty, from New York, attends Webster University -- with campuses in London and the Netherlands. He's traveling between semesters. He plans to travel in a musical circus-like troupe through the USSR and China. Veronica, from Houston, is traveling through Germany with Britta, from Mainz. Their fathers met in WWII and the families have remained close. Greg, from St. Louis, travels to wherever he can get a cheap night's sleep. We were all at the Hofbraühaus last night. What a rowdy place. One liter steins (3 cans equivalent) for DM7.90. Not cheap, but huge -- and fun. The waitresses really do carry 10 of them at a time! It's a fun place, but probably 80% American. The real fun was getting back to the hostel. Greg passed around a hash joint. After I hit it, he said, "This is Europe. You don't take just one hit!" So I took another. I was flying. Somehow we all made it back. Of course we didn't pay for the U-Bahn. Nobody does. Or so he said. Greg was teaching Britta to say, with her German accent, "Y'all come back now, y'hear?" and "Yo bitch, two more beers." I'm glad I went. A few of us stayed up and talked in the hall until 1:30 am. I called Matt, too! I'll bet he enjoyed it. I do wish Neil had come. He's not really the party type. Quite by chance, I ran into him on the way to the train station this morning and he came to Dachau with me. It was a terribly cold and rainy day. Appropriate for the setting, though. It was a very intense tour. I'm so glad Neil was there. I enjoyed spending the day with him. I wouldn't mind spending the night with him, too. I kept dropping hints. I asked if he had seen "Bent" about two gay men in Dachau. I commented on and took a picture of a gay memorial. No response. We spent an hour together waiting out the pouring rain -- in a crematorium. Very surreal. But it was so romantic with the rain and all. I wish something had happened. But we still had a good time. I love his smile! I'm in the dining hall now -- after a nap and a shower. I hope he comes by. I'm not sure what I'll do tonight. People are staying in. It's cold and wet. I'd like to just go wander around some more. I think I'll go to the Deutches Museum tomorrow. Science and Technology. I might go to Oberammergau also/instead. I'll be at Lark and Joe's tomorrow. So many decisions to make. Poland? Prague? Vienna? Greece? I need 9 months like everyone else!

6:50 pm

I met this really cool, cute guy from Birmingham, England. I love the way he says, "It's amaizing," "really brilliant" and "dair" (dear -- expensive). I love foreigners! He's a roadie for bands. How cool! We went around Munich today and talked about this and that. Then we stopped at the Hofbraühaus and talked music over a couple of beers. We talked about Talk Talk, The The, David Byrne, Brian Eno, Billy Bragg, Morrissey. How fun! He's a really nice guy. I hope he goes out tonight. He's traveling to Nuremberg and Prague next. Then on to the French Riviera by September. He's very good-natured, too, considering I got us lost several times. Oh, his name's Neil. Last night, I did wait until the 12:50 train. And I almost didn't get on because it looked full. (Stupid!) I have a First Class ticket. I can kick out those 2nd Class moochers! So I did. I didn't get a whole lot of sleep. Next time, I'll take a couchette. It took me a while to get situated at the Banhof before I headed over to the Youth Hostel. Had to wash up, shave, change clothes. All this in a disgusting toilette that I paid DM.30 for. Stupid! I should've done it on the train. So I got to the YH at 9:15 am. It didn't open until 10:00. That's when I met Neil, though. And a bunch of Canadian girls. Then I discovered that I had left my hostel card at Mainz, and this one had a 26 year-old age limit. I was pissed, but luckily I was able to buy one and they let me in without verifying my age. Cost me an extra DM30 ($20), though. Didn't find Scott until this evening. That's okay. I'd rather go out with Neil. If he's going. Oh, it was a beautiful, sunny, hot day for a change. But it rained in the late afternoon. Hope it holds off. I'm really thinking more about Warsaw, Krakow and Prague. Everyone is doing it! But I'm spending so much already! But it's cheap there! More decisions. I think I'm going to Dachau tomorrow. I should go call Lark right now!

9:00 am

On the Rhine River cruise. Too bad it's overcast. If it's too dreary, I may get off in Koblenz. I did stay at the Jundenherberge in Mainz. I met a guy named Scott from Louisville and Patrick from Sherbrooke, Quebec. We went into town last night and celebrated the Sommersnacht (or something) with thousands of others. Then it began to rain. And rain and rain. No coat this time. We all got so soaked, but it was definitely fun. Scott can be a real ugly American sometimes. But mostly, he's just assertive. I should take lessons. Anyway, I thought Mainz would be a sleepy little town and I would take it easy and get to bed early. Hah! We got on Bus 22 to go back to the hostel, but it was going the other way! We found out when it came to the end of the line and the driver told us to get out. He was pretty nice, though, when he figured out we were totally lost! He called us a taxi. Cost us DM2.50 each to take a bus to a taxi that cost DM23. We managed to get back to the hostel by closing time, though.

2:30 pm

The weather has improved somewhat. So has the company. I joined a trio of sorority girls playing cards. They're from Indiana University. It's so much nicer to meet up with people. Makes time pass -- not really faster, but better. The scenery along here really is beautiful. Castles all over the place! And cute little towns, as well as very touristy towns. This was such a good idea. My feet and knees are aching so bad. It's nice to have a day off. I'm thinking about going to Warsaw. Yes, Poland! Both Scott and this girl, Katie, are going. You no longer need a visa, so I could do it. Scott says it's so cheap, but I don't know. Man, wouldn't that be great? I should call Auntie Ann and find out where my relatives are! I'll think it over when I'm at Lark's. I could easily do it by cutting down Berlin and Venice to one day each. May be worth it! I hate having money be a determining factor, but I'm running so low. I'm spending too much. You know, people think that a month traveling is a lot, but I've met so many people traveling much longer. Two women from Australia have round-the-world airplane tickets (with four stops allowed) and are spending five months traveling. Scott is traveling three months, then will stay on in London working for 6 months. Patrick is traveling for an entire year! He'll be working in France picking grapes in September, then going down to Spain and Portugal for the winter! What fun! I could do that, you know. What an incredible experience it would be. There's so much more to life. Too many experiences waiting to be tried. I've got to learn some other languages. German would be helpful right now! That would make things even better. Why can't I be a linguist when I grow up? A traveling video linguist. Really, though. There are so many stories to be told from around the world. So many people, so many cultures, so many lifestyles.

6:00 pm

I'm so glad I made the decision to take the entire trip from Mainz to Cologne. Just the Koblenz-Cologne part can't compare! We're nearing the end of the day's voyage. Playing a bit more euchre and laughing about the Australians. These two Australian girls who I talked to earlier have just been sitting and writing for 9 hours! What could they be writing about? Not us, I'm sure. This was a wonderful, relaxing day. No hurry, no concerns. Just sitting and watching and taking it easy. A true vacation. I hope my feet and knees have recovered. Ashley, Katie and Paula are pretty fun. Still the sorority type, but cool. I'm glad they "took me in." I could've spent the whole day with the Australians instead! There's this great hotel on a cliff near Bad Godesberg. I'll have to go there when I'm rich!

11:15 pm

Such a wonderful day. We wandered around Cologne from 7 - 10 pm. Not much to do here. The cathedral is incredible, though. When you walk out of the train station, it looms above you. Not much pubbing going on, though. Not like Mainz, which was a party town last night. There were these two guys dressed as a bride and groom walking on stilts through the rain-soaked crowd. Anyway, now I'm at the Banhof waiting for an overnight to Munich. I don't think I can take the 11:36 because it only has sleeping cars and I'm too cheap to get one. The next train's at 12:48. I'll wait. I'm not tired anyway. I really haven't been tired much -- except after smoking!

1:00 am

I am not leaving this hotel again tonight! I called Matt, Eli and Richard! Yay! We were 6000 miles apart and still together. Yay! I guess it was 6:30 pm there. I told them I'm stoned in Amsterdam in the pouring fucking rain! Anyhow, I did try to go back to the C***ring. I walk by a cool bar on my street playing Bob Marley. I hesitate. I say, "Nah. Go on." So I walk ... in the pouring fucking rain!! I get not very far and turn back! "Give up," I say. "Go back to the Bob Marley." So I did. I had a drink. The place was full of locals -- speaking that Dutch stuff. The waitress was so loud! They were all talking and laughing. Me and this old guy were singing along with "Redemption Song." No barriers. So I'm sitting there, thinking that I have to go back to this other bar! I go out again. I walk and walk and walk in the P.F.R! I get lost AGAIN! I'm in the scary Red Light District. No map this time! I said get me out of here. I retraced my steps and got the hell out of that area. I mean, it was this dark, rainy, deserted street. I'm just toolin' down there with the word "Tourist" across my forehead! I was SCARED! I was PISSED! I was HIGH! I was LOST! I was the Little Match Girl! It was destined to happen -- found by Amsterdam police the next morning, his last match -- no, his Hamtramck lighter -- snuffed out by the rain. Vhat a country!

1:20 am

I'm trying to set my travel alarm clock, but it's fucking up. It keeps ringing when I turn it to "set alarm." I hope the neighbors aren't home! I'm still stoned. Now I'm thinking I should stay another day. I just wish the weather were nicer! I wouldn't mind staying. It's safer. It's a scary world out there! But I can do it! I RULE!

1:25 am

Traveling is so hard! You have a million decisions to make! I thought it'd be a vacation without a care -- without decisions. But there are so many! Where do I stay? Should I leave today? How will I pay for this? Should I buy that? Can I carry it? So much going on. Like in the square at the Dam. A great place.

11:30 am

Now this is the way to travel. First Class in a compartment by myself. Of course, I won't meet anyone this way! Perhaps I'll ride in 2nd class occasionally, but I do enjoy this time alone, watching the Dutch countryside. I'm on the way to Köln. I'll spend the day there, hopefully take a cruise on the Rhine, and take a night train to Berlin. Didn't write about Saturday night. I went to the April Bar, ran into Eamon and his Dutch friend, Jan. We drank and talked. Went to the Exit Bar and drank and talked. Eamon left at 3, then Jan and I danced a bit. Then I went home at 5:00 am. It's too bad I didn't see Eamon last night to get his address in London. But he'll be in Barcelona when I'm there. Who knows?

1:30 pm

Well, I had a bit of an adventure there. I got off at Duisdorf instead of Köln. Gotta keep an eye on the watch. Luckily, there was another train in 20 minutes. Nice little visit!

5:45 pm

On the train again. On the way to Mainz. I found out that I need to start in Mainz if I want the entire 9 hour Rhine cruise -- downstream. So I spent 2 hours in Köln and off again. I hope to find the Youth Hostel in Mainz. It's lovely looking across the river. An occasional castle is passed. Must look even better by boat. I hope the weather is like this tomorrow -- warm and partly sunny. Much better than Amsterdam! I really enjoy having this time to sit and think and write. In the midst of beauty.

5:30 pm

Sitting in Le Monde Cafe in Rembrandtsplein. It's beginning to rain again, so I moved indoors. Shame. Can't people-watch as well here. Went to Anne Frank and the van Gough Museum today. I'm tired of touristy things. I just want to sit and observe from now on. Life is so funny. There's a vile group of Spaniards being obnoxious. How fun. I wish it weren't raining. At least it's not as cold as the first day. I'm spending a lot on touristy things. Too much $. I think I'll stop somewhere small tomorrow on the way to Berlin.

11:50 pm

I was the Little Match Girl. At 10:30 pm last night -- after a nap and then getting high, I went out in the fucking pouring rain to go to the C***trap -- a disco. I decided not to go to April to meet with Eamon (I'm bummed), because that was too far to walk and I couldn't figure out the tram system at this stage. I got so lost! I didn't know where I was -- in a foreign city, in the pouring fucking rain, with a map looking like papier maché by now, walking through .... The Red-Light district! It's pretty obvious because the shops all have red lights. Tourist attraction, you know. People were asking me, "Whaddya want?" A woman gave me a scary look right to my face as she walked by. Like something from a German film. I was scared! Then, by some quirk, I ended up on the street I wanted. I eventually found the C***ring and went in. There was one person besides the two workers at the upstairs bar. The disco doesn't open until 11:00. I ordered a beer, drank it fast, and left, hoping to come back later. I walked -- in the pouring fucking rain -- another mile to the Blues Brother Coffeeshop -- for the third time in 3 days. They were playing music videos of The Doors. It was great! People were stoned like me! I had a pint and waited and enjoyed. Then I came back here to the hotel -- in the pouring fucking rain! Now I want to go back to the C***ring, but it's POURING!

1:30 pm

I'm sitting by a canal enjoying Amsterdam. I rented a bike and I'm cruising around. Very fun. I went to a gay cafe and met a Scottish guy named Eamon. Now I'm going to the van Gough museum and then to a gay cafe/bar and then, who knows?

3:30 pm

I went to the Rijksmueum instead, because the van Gough line was too long. I really enjoyed it, although I was disappointed by it's size -- after hearing it was perhaps the greatest museum in the world. The presentation of art was great. They put stained glass windows in cases and put them in the windows. You actually walked though a wooden gateway from inside a church. The wood sculpture was wonderful. Great wood secretaries and wardrobes. Gonna try to call Matt. I don't like feeling that I must do things -- get high, go to a museum, go to a gay bar, sit out and observe, write and record things, call Matt, send postcards. So much to do!!

5:00 pm

I just saw the coolest video at the Sledilijk Museum. It was a 30 minute series of "the domino effect." Very industrial in look -- old tires, fire, steam, water. An old tire is bumped by an unwinding bag of garbage. It rolls and knocks a block and a carton of paint falls into a pan with two candles, the paint caught fire and the flaming ooze seeps into another pan and eventually lights a bottle-rocket device which shoots out a ball at something else. It just goes on and on. A lot of dry ice and steam, water gurgling out of a bottle into a pan, causing an empty tin to rise and bump something else.... Incredible. I wanted to purchase it, even at $65, but it's not available in NTSC.

7:40 pm

Good move renting that bicycle. I got to see quite a bit of Amsterdam and didn't get too exhausted. It's pretty scary out on the streets here. I saw an old lady get hit by a motorcycle. Ouch. Another great time in the plaza at the Dam. A 400 monitor videowall is there. Too fun. So much going on. Better than London's Leicester Square! Did I say I went to bed at 9:30 pm yesterday? I did. I was so tired and it was raining. Not tonight!

2:20 am

This is so cool! I'm on the ferry to Oostende. I got a chance to get a little sleep, because I'm able to stretch out across three seats, but it's only 8:30 pm Detroit time, so I'm not sleepy! There's someone playing a flute in the distance -- The Hallelujah Chorus. I'm in a much better mood. I'm really looking forward to Amsterdam. I think it was a good idea to go right on. I spent two hours with Keith. That was nice. He's a good guy. I hope I can meet some more guys! Haven't really met anyone, but the guy on the plane and a guy on the train from Gatwick. Life is cool sometimes. As long as I can secure lodging, I'll be okay!

6:30 am

What thoughts now? I'm cold! Had a two hour (3 - 5 am) layover in Oostende in an open train station. Then the train was late! Now, there are two of us in First Class. I don't think I'll like First Class travel if I can't meet any people. This other woman is a Computer Animation T.A. at Ohio State. That's fun. I still have not been in Europe 24 hours. Seems a lot longer. I do wish I had someone to share this with.

11:45 am

It's that "Casa de Missel - we win" feeling all over again. I scored a cool place in Amsterdam. It's a refuge for Dead heads and other 60s retro-types. I have a tiny cubicle called a room, but it's fine. The proprietor offers tea, coffee and weed to his guests! It's located on a busy sex-shop, drug paraphernalia street. This city is too much. Looking forward to expanding my horizons!

2:30 pm June 20, 1991

The Museum of Moving Images in London is incredible. I'm watching "The Seven Samurai." Now it's a look back at 100 years of film. Great stuff. This is the cinema exhibit. There's so much great stuff here -- from Eisenstein to television (which is coming up.) I just hope I can stay away. Not away -- awake! I guess I'm losing it. So sleepy! I had a very long morning at Victoria Station -- trying to call a hotel in Amsterdam, unsuccessfully. Then trying to see which train and ferry I should take out of here. I've decided I'm leaving tonight instead of staying overnight. I'll get to see my friend, Keith for two hours. Oh well. I'm pretty overwhelmed. If I feel this way in London, where I've been twice and where I understand the language, I can't imagine how I'll handle the next month! Very intimidating. I'd better be up to the challenge. I hope Amsterdam is as great as I think it will be. I just hope I can find a decent hotel. I'm already spending too much -- in only six hours!