12:40 am

I'm lucky they accepted traveler's cheques for the ferry to London. They don't accept MasterCard and the exchange office is closed. Pretty stupid, really, since Oostende is a pretty active station all night long. The ferry leaves at 2:00 am. I'll have 4 hours to sleep. Yippee! Tomorrow will be a long day. So will Friday! I'm pretty depressed about going home, but resigned to it. I have so many stories to tell! I've done so much in one month! I'm out of money. Must use my MasterCard in London. Time to get on the ferry!

7:35 pm

Same old story -- nothing's ever easy! I thought that I'd reached the end of my worries, but alas, I go to get money from my MasterCard and it's refused! I was pretty stuck then. With about £7 in my pocket and needed at least £10 for travel to Penge and Gatwick alone. Pretty annoying. Then I went to another place, and it was accepted. Thank God. Oh, by the way, it was pouring rain in Dover. And I had missed the 5:52 express, so I had to take the 7:03 instead, getting to Victoria Station at 9:30 instead of 7:30. Oh well.

8:30 am

I woke up on the train this morning, nearing Geneva. It was raining! How perfect! A trip through the mountains in the rain! This is shit. I only get hot weather, or cold and rainy. I want a refund! A woman told me it's been very hot in Geneva. Ha! Liar! I don't believe it! Only southern Europe for me now on. Who needs soggy mountains! I'll take a hot sunny beach any day! I did have chocolate and croissants for breakfast, however. Made me feel better. I'm overlooking Lac Leman now. The mountains should be beautiful in the distance, but I can barely see them. I walked down to the water to see the Jet d'Air, (it had stopped raining) but it wasn't on. Probably starts at 8:00 -- it was 7:55. But I had to get back to the station. Perfect. great way to end my trip, huh? I took the Tourist Bus yesterday in Barcelona. Didn't leave myself enough time, though. I did see Parc Guell with it's incredible works by Gaudi and the amusement park on Mount Tibidabo, but I didn't see Montjuic or the Olympic Stadium. Oh well. Barcelona was fantastic. Especially Antonio! I've met so many wonderful people on this trip! Here's my new idea. Get a video camera and offer to tape people at the Olympics and the World's Fair -- so they don't have to lug their camera around! Hmm. Possibilities! I need to learn Spanish better -- and French and German. Air conditioning and automatic sliding doors here in Switzerland. Too cold, though. The train from Barcelona to Cebrere was air conditioned, but I think it had lost it's freon. It was a long trip -- many stops -- but some fun people. An Australian guy talked about Pamplona. I guess people were jumping off a statue into the link-crossed arms of people below. One person was killed when he fell instead of jumped. A German (I had heard Swedish or Norwegian, too) girl died after being gored by a bull. So many experiences. God, I wish it were clear. I can tell this would be beautiful.

11:00 am

Maybe it's a good thing it's raining. Dreariness is easier to leave than sunshine. I'm absolutely not ready to leave, but I'm pretty resigned to the fact that I'll be on that plane in 48 hours. When I think of seeing everyone and telling them about my trip and seeing Dingo, and planning the rest of my life -- then it's okay to be going home. I'm thinking now of staying in Bruges tonight instead of going on to London, and taking a Thursday overnight ferry. That would be cutting it close!

5:45 pm

I keep thinking about talking with Antonio. I'm proud of the fact that I was able to communicate, but I wonder how he felt. I wonder if he felt I was kind of stupid. I know that's irrational, but I think that you do subconsciously think that when someone can't speak your language. In your own country. I had met a girl from Yugoslavia and she spoke English pretty well. But when she couldn't remember a word, she got all flustered and said how stupid she was. That's how I felt with Antonio. But I know I communicated much less effectively than that girl did. It caused me not to say as much as I would have liked. I guess there were some barriers. I am going on to London tonight -- if I make the connection in Brussels. What the hell -- I haven't missed one yet. I just don't look forward to London like I used to. It's a wasted day in my eyes. But I should see Keith. And maybe I'll do some shopping. I managed to spend $20 in Switzerland pretty easily. On what? I'm not sure. Lucerne turned out to be beautiful when it cleared up.

6:00 pm

I miss Mark from Leicester, His "I'm gonna shout 'Oi' in a minute," While walking near the stadium in Florence, we saw some kids writing graffiti on a wall. So Mark shouted "Oi." How funny. How British. I wish I had gotten his address -- and his picture. Florence may be my fondest memory of this trip. Aside from my Barcelona buddy. Getting on the wrong bus in the rain in Mainz. Going back to the hostel after the Hofbrauhaus in Munich. Meeting "Maude" on the way to Fulda. The anxiety of the illegal trip through Czechoslovakia. The warmth of the Polish family on the train on the way to Warsaw. The stoned times in Amsterdam -- staying out until 5 am! The Jazz Festival in Nice -- and running for the train! The dreary day at Dachau with Neil from Birmingham. What a nice guy! What an incredible journey this has been!

9:30 pm

I've been reflecting again. This kind of travel uses up every single resource you've got. Every bit of information you've learned in your life -- you use! All kinds of skills you never thought you had. You have to be so resourceful, yet so dependent. So active, so aware, so intense, so willing to learn, to accept, to adapt. It's like being an actor. Each city is a new film with a new setting, a new cast of characters. Everything changes - language, money, location, customs, expectations, people. It is a whole new world -- so different from the things you've experienced before, yet those past experiences are so necessary to survive. The challenge is incredible. The rewards, tremendous. You're changed forever. You've bonded with so many fellow travelers. All in the same boat, yet all so very different. Each with his or her own movie credits. The fact that you've touched each other's lives and make "guest appearance" in each other's movies is MIND-BOGGLING! One missed train, one changed mind, one minute's difference would change this whole world that you've created. Common goals -- varied destinations. Yet paths cross. You touch each other's lives. You become part of someone else's world. This is nothing new, of course. It happens in everyday life. But traveling makes it all so apparent because every chance meeting is so important. So intense! You're constantly creating history. Your own personal history -- and that of the people you join with.

I'm traveling to Brussels. I've been alone in a compartment for almost 2 hours now. Nice. This time is so necessary for reflection, for tidying up, for bringing together a myriad of thoughts. So many thoughts! Questions. Answers. Each day an adventure. Life lived to the fullest. So much energy! I've created much more than I've used up. I'm rarely tired (except at museums). My mind is constantly racing. Traveling is the drug for me. You see so much more -- and truly appreciate life and it's incredible potential. What a world, what a world.

9:15 am

This has been a hellacious trip. Of course, I didn't get much sleep last night on the train. I contorted my body into every possible position, but my back and knees were killing me! Then we got to Port Bou, Spain, where we had to go through customs and change trains. They herded us into an underground tunnel to go under the tracks. Then we were stuck there -- in this 60 foot long tunnel. Everyone loaded down with backpacks and luggage. Some were smoking. It was horrible. I kept thinking of the Who concert in Cincinnati. Potential for disaster. Then the lights go out! Luckily, nobody panicked. What a stupid, dangerous situation. We were waiting to go through customs. It took over 45 minutes, standing in this crowded, smoky tunnel. Then I got on the train to Barcelona, but it doesn't arrive until 10:20 am, and it's not at the station near the Youth Hostel. This'll be great!

3:30 pm

Incredible fishy things at the market near Las Ramblas. Huge fish heads, turkey heads (skinned), live crabs and lobsters, as well as the usual fruits, vegetables, and meat. It looks like there's a lot to do in this city. Should I stay three nights? We'll see. Depends on if I meet someone. I'd like to get to the beach and see the night life, too. The hostel was hard to find. I was given directions to the nearest metro stop, then I was on my own. An awfully nice old man gave me directions. I was out and about less than an hour after arriving!

11:30 am

Maybe there's more of a breeze. Maybe it's just a cooler day, but it doesn't seem as hot here on the beach in Nice as it was in Menton. Another gorgeous day. I was going to go parasailing, but I don't think I will now. It's too hazy. I can do that back home, too, with some people which would make it more fun. I'm thinking of spending some time at the casino in Monte Carlo, though. I'd like to see Cannes, too. I got a good exchange rate on $100 on my MasterCard. So I'll treat myself to something. I didn't eat supper again last night. No money! Had a beer again instead. There aren't those guys selling "7-up-up-up-up-up," Coca-cola, and Orangina on the beach as I remember seven years ago. If I do this traveling thing, I should look into a motorcycle. It would be much easier to get around. Perhaps cheaper than the train, but maybe not. There is an absolutely wonderful French man laying next to me -- with his two small kids. He is gorgeous. Not so much the face, but the body.

7:00 pm

All right! I'm at the Nice Jazz Festival. "Grande Parade du Jazz." It took a long time for me to walk (and get lost) here. And I'm so bummed that I have to leave at 9:30 - just as the Andy Summers band starts. Shit! The 23:32 train to Barcelona that I had planned to take doesn't start operation until tomorrow night! How stupid! So now I have to take the 22:20 -- much too early! What can I do? I need to get to Barcelona tonight. Another adventure starts tomorrow! It's like a brand new life. In a new world! Time to make it or break it! Mary Tyler Moore -- Mary Richards! I have to get a cool Nice Jazz Festival t-shirt. I'm having so much fun. Oh yeah, I'm high! On the French Riviera! In a beautiful park, listening to jazz -- 3 choices! There are all sorts of people here. Old Niceans, young Americans, sophisticated French women, Italian jazz-lovers. It's everything. I can hear the other band in the distance. I wish this one would start. I like recording this. Journalism. I just wish it weren't so darn hot. So sweaty. Hot jazz!

8:50 pm

C'est magnifique! I met Emeline Michel, who was one of the performers earlier. She's from Haiti and does some great stuff. Good music with African dance added. This is a great festival. And the headliners haven't even started. It's okay that I'll miss them. It's been so fantastic already! It's such a more intimate (and safer) atmosphere than Detroit's Montreaux. There's a little of everything here. Some great horns! Some great food, too! I had eaten before, so I wouldn't have to pay expensive prices here. Oh well. After stuffing myself with fettuccini carbonara earlier, I had a Gran Marnier crepe and a native Nice dish -- mashed chick peas with olive oil and spices rolled out and fried in a wood-burning stove. Great stuff. I want a Belgian waffle, but I'd explode.

11:45 pm

I had to stay to see Andy Summer's band. I refused to be a slave to time. I was watching the Jazz Futures Band at 9:00, thinking I really should leave soon. They were so good. All the bands were fantastique! I'm so glad I got high so I could enjoy it even more. But I had to see Andy Summers! He was to start at 9:30. My train was to leave at 10:20 -- loading at 10:00. It took me 45 minutes to walk to the park -- I did get lost and had to walk uphill, though. The buses were running, but only sporadically. I had just spent my last coins on water, so I needed change for the bus. At 9:25, I got a beer, so I'd have change, went to the arena stage, and waited. And waited. Of course they were late. I kept thinking, "Come on, come on!" My knees were killing me, too. I thought, "I don't care if I have to run all the way to the station and kill my knees and feet. I'm staying!" They finally came on. 9:45, I think. I listened to one song and I left! And I ran. I ran and ran. I stopped at a bus stop. Next bus -- 10:05. Wouldn't work! I had to get my baggage out of left luggage still! I kept running. I was sweating like crazy. It was probably still 80°. I was soaked! I kept running. "I have to make that train!" What would I do if I didn't? I thought I could maybe just take a train to somewhere so I could sleep. Or I could sleep on the beach. NO! I was going to make that train, dammit! I kept running. I didn't dare slow down to look at my watch. "The train will be late anyway -- it's coming from Rome." I had to stop occasionally to look at my map. All odds were against me. A mad dash through the steamy streets of Nice. I got to the station at 10:08. The train was already there -- on time! I still needed to get my baggage. Success! I got to the platform at 10:15. But I still needed to find First Class because Second Class was very crowded and rowdy Spaniards or Italians -- I don't know which -- were hanging out the windows, singing and drinking. First Class was all the way down -- of course! I got there -- it was pretty crowded as well. I finally got the sixth -- and last -- seat in a compartment. Very uncomfortable, but I made it. Now I don't want to talk to these people. Here I barge in on them, a sweaty, smelly pig, having to climb over everyone and pile my luggage on theirs. What an oaf. I’m a smelly, sweaty oaf!

7:00 pm

Just when things seem at their worst... I meet some more nice people! I got to Menton at about 8:30 pm. Three guys looked like they were Interrailers, so I joined with them to try to find the hostel. Good thing. It was very hard to find. And I had no francs, the exchange was closed. And the hostel was full -- after climbing a mountain with full rucksacks. Well, we were out in a tent. Paul offered to sleep on the floor, Andrew paid for me, Andreas loaned me 50 francs for dinner and beer! They were so nice! Paul and Andrew are from Yorkshire. Andreas is from Stuttgart. They saved me from a very tragic night! I didn't eat because I felt bad spending Andreas' money. Bread, water, dried fruit and beer is all I had all day. Today we went to the beach. For lunch, we got some fruit, croquettes and pizza. I love French pizza. They make it the best -- the crust is flaky or something. It was so hot in the sun. The water was beautiful. I actually did quite a bit of swimming -- for me. Swam out to a platform with the guys, but I was exhausted. I really need to improve my swimming skills. And my climbing skills! Walking up to this hostel is very exhausting! But the view is breathtaking. The Mediterranean Sea in front, mountains to the right and rear. I went to Nice late this afternoon. Bought a ticket to the Nice Jazz Festival tomorrow night. $20 -- I hope it's worth it. I'll take the 11:30 pm train to Barcelona. I'm thinking of parasailing tomorrow morning. $33 -- worth it? Many of my friends back home will be on their way to white water rafting tomorrow. I'd like to see Monte Carlo and Cannes, too.

8:00 am

Success! I RULE CZECHOSLOVAKIA! I was happy when only two of us were in the compartment. The girl was Yugoslavian. When the inspector came around, I showed him my ticket and he said, "Zbrodowice?" as if, "Why are you going there?" I explained (in Pig Latin Polish sign language) that my Eurailpass covered the rest of the trip. Fine. Then, as we get to the border, my nerves are on edge, although I had been keeping myself busy by reading. The Czechs came in -- one by one -- inspecting passports. After an hour's wait, we crossed the border. This time, more Czechs got on and thoroughly inspected the train -- they asked me to put my seat upright. It was stuck, but I finally managed and they looked under it. In the next cabin, they were knocking on the walls and ceiling. They knocked on the ceiling all the way through the train. It was 1 am. Finally, we continued our journey -- nobody had asked about the tickets. I felt better, but I knew it was still coming. My stomach was churning. I tried to sleep, but couldn't. At 2:30 am, there was a pound at the door and someone came in to inspect tickets. I was taken by surprise. I fumbled for my Eurailpass and gave it to him without even looking at him -- trying to be nonchalant, but feeling like I was giving myself away. He said thank you and gave it right back! What a relief! That was it! I had won! I was still so wired that I barely slept -- maybe 2 hours total. Crossing the Austrian border was a snap. No one has ever checked my bags. Luckily. Now I'm in Vienna for 15 hours. Time to explore! Very expensive here -- I paid $3 for a danish and tea that would have cost 50¢ in Poland! But I've reserved my couchette for Venice (no more train tickets - yay) and I'm ready to go!

2:00 pm

I'm sitting in the huge courtyard of Schloss Shönberg, overlooking Vienna. Very beautiful. This is a wonderful city. Very clean, very easy to get around, very accommodating to tourists and very picturesque. It's another warm and sunny day. There's a great breeze blowing up here. I'm getting so crazed, though. I'm trying to think of ways I can still do everything, including Switzerland. It just won't work. If I travel overnight constantly, I won't meet people in hostels. I should stay 2 nights in Venice. We'll see what happens. Vienna is very expensive. I can't buy or do much at all.

2:10 pm

Well, I've reached my point of total frustration! I was trying to get a ticket from Krakow to Vienna. Found out that it would cost $35 -- quite a bit more than I expected. So I went to get more money exchanged. I thought $35 was for a couchette, but it's for just a ticket. I had only $30, because I though it would be less without a couchette. I went back later a third time. I had heard yesterday that the Eurailpass was now good in Poland and Czechoslovakia. Nobody knew. I finally just wanted to buy the $35 ticket, but they gave me a $2.50 ticket to the Polish border. If the Eurailpass isn't good in Czechoslovakia, I may be in trouble. Still, I can't imagine it would cost $35 to cross Czechoslovakia. Oh well. I was rather distraught at first, but now I'm over it. This is one of those unexpected misadventures. See what happens next! I'm sitting in the Krakow square next to a man who's yelling at passersby. Fun town. I never seem to dress for the weather. Today it's sunny and hot -- no shorts on, of course. And my stuff is at the station. I bought a chess set and want to mail it home, but I think it would be too hard to figure out. I managed to get to Wawel Hill today, but I blew off the salt mines. I was supposed to meet the New York couple there. I wish that Swede from last night wasn't going to Auschweitz today. I would've liked to hang around with him. He had such big, beautiful eyes! And very friendly. He said good-bye to me at 7:00 this morning as he was leaving and I was still in bed. I wonder what I can expect from Austria. I'll spend more, I'll bet. I just hope I get there without a hassle!

5:15 pm

Still in the square. They've set up a stage in front of the clock tower and some little kids in traditional costumes are singing songs. Very musical city, this Krakow. This could really be fun later on if there are real bands. What more could I ask for? I'm trying to figure out if I can go to Pamplona for the running of the bulls. It could work out after Barcelona. Last day is July 14, when I'd leave Barcelona anyway. Could be fun! I wish I had a video camera. These kids singing would be great for an international "Those Bloomin' Kids."

7:45 pm

This polka band playing in the square is playing "Melody of Love." Of course! These Poles sure love their ice cream -- lody. Everyone is eating it. There are stands all over the place. I'm bummed that there's not another band on the stage. What a waste. Getting nervous (again) about Czechoslovakia! I'm always so unprepared! Now, when I have nothing but time, I don't have my book, "It's Always Something" by Gilda Radner. It's a very good book. I'd enjoy reading it now, but that would mean going back to the station and getting my stuff out. I'd rather be in the square.

11:00 pm

Reflections of Poland. A country unprepared for mass tourism. When you get off the train at Osweicim, there are no signs or anything telling you how to get to the concentration camps. Very few people speak English. One woman at the market in Warsaw was freaked when I spoke English after she had been showing me her Soviet toys and explaining something in Polish. She looked at me as if I were from Mars! Even Warsaw is not prepared for tourists. Everything is so cheap, though. 15¢ for a rose! $3.50 for a pierogi and beer dinner at an Armenian restaurant. And traveling is incredible. I'd bet a trip across the entire country would be under $10. Maybe $8. Krakow to the border is $2.50. Hostels have co-ed rooms. Pretty dirty, though. And no toilet paper! Same with the trains. No paper towel, or no soap, or the water doesn't work. This is the first time I've listened to my music. It makes me feel happy and safe when I'm scared about Czechoslovakia!

11:30 am

Berlin is a weird city. All sorts of crowds and demonstrations. I got in at 6:30 am and it took 3 1/2 hours before I was settled and ready to explore. I had to get over to Lichtberg Station to store my pack, because that's where my train leaves from. But there was no money exchange open, so I went to Hauptbanhof and there was some kind of demonstration going on. The police were out guarding this one platform where the next train was going to Moscow. Not sure what was going on, but I took a picture. Finally got money and a ticket to Warsaw! Can hardly wait! Berlin is a pretty dirty, smelly city so far. I saw the Brandenburg Gate and crossed the river to where the wall is still standing. It was pretty intense. There are markers for all those who died crossing. Even 2 in 1989. It was strange that no other tourists crossed the river to touch and be by the wall. I wouldn't have missed it. The eastern side is truly gross. The smell of diesel is giving me a headache. I hear Poland is no better. I don't know why I expected to hear more English here! I'm not sure what I'll do the rest of the day here. There's a Checkpoint Charlie Museum. And I'll have to stroll down to main street -- Kurfurstendamm. Sleeping in the couchette last night was pretty nice. I just have a seat tonight.

2:30 pm

I'm sitting in a beautiful park in the middle of Berlin -- the Tiergarten. It's almost a woods, really. A lazy river running through. Birds chirping, geese flapping in the water, bells chiming. And it's all so green and peaceful. And strange birds that I've never seen before. How beautiful. Only the bugs are pretty bad. I guess Berlin's a city of contrasts. I just left the scene of tourists chipping away at the wall, while a construction crew nearby tries to eliminate the last traces of it anyway. I got a piece of it. It was so cool just touching it and reading the graffiti. Such a buzz.

6:00 pm

I thought coming to Aleksander Platz would be fun. Looked like an active place in the postcards. Well it sure is. There's some protest about East Germans losing their jobs and their welfare as of today. Luckily, one of the protesters spoke English and explained it to me. I suppose it's related to this morning's protest, but who knows? All is not well in re-unified Germany. She said that they wanted DDR to stay Communist. I suppose it would be difficult to wipe out 45 years of a political system in 1 1/2 years. Pretty interesting city, this Berlin. I spent he afternoon on Ku-damm Strasse. A very bust retail area. Damn, these little black bugs are terrible! I've been feeling very lonely today. And very nervous about Poland.

It's very interesting. Most "revolutionaries" in the States are younger. Here, there are many older people marching. They're the ones who've grown up and lived with Communism. Old habits are hard to break, eh? There are hundreds of people marching! I love a good demonstration!

7:30 pm

I guess Maude was right. You don't need language to communicate. An old German man came up to me and started talking about the several men who are playing "the shell game" under a viaduct at Aleksander Platz. He said he didn't understand how they did it, or why people fell for it -- or something like that! I didn't let on that I knew not a word of German. I just kept nodding and smiling. I followed the march to the Deutch Bank. (I think the DM had devalued in the past year.) It was fun being at the forefront. What did I care? I'm a foreigner. I'll be in Poland in just hours.

11:00 pm

Almost to the border. We just spent 45 minutes at the station in Frankfurt (Oder) getting passports checked. Mine was checked four times before it was stamped. When the Polish guard first came in I was utterly befuddled. He spoke in Polish of all things! I think he asked if I had anything to declare, but I hadn't a clue. I just meekly said, "I don't understand." I was so intimidated! But now I'm on my way and there's only two of us in this compartment, so I'll be able to stretch out and sleep. Good deal. It was worth the risk of not getting a couchette for another $15. Poland!!

11:50 pm

Well, I won't be able to stretch out and sleep. I forgot that there are other stops on the way to Warsaw. And long ones! We stayed in Katowice another 45 minutes and we've been at this station for 15 minutes already. Our compartment has been invaded by 2 lovely grandparents and two little Polish girls. The man looks like Pope John Paul and the woman has a wonderful blue rinse. She's feeding the girls tomatoes and cucumbers. And they're all speaking Polish! It's surprising what a warm, happy feeling I have. Memories of my childhood, visiting the Polish-speaking relatives in Hamtramck. They didn't speak it often, but I do remember!

5:00 pm

I'm getting into that complacent mood again. Just sitting around at the Kays without a care in the world. I'm feeling a lot of anxiety towards going to Berlin and Poland. Such a challenge once again. I'm glad I at least had the chance to recharge my batteries -- my body's as well as my shaver's!

11:10 pm

I'm at the Fulda Banhof waiting for the 11:32 to Berlin. On the road again. What a nice visit I had with the Kays. I miss them! I'm feeling anxious again. My stomach's bothering me -- or was it Lark's cherry pie? My sleeping berth reservation says car 699, but the sign here says there is none. There's a 299. Hope it's not a problem. Just what I need! It's coming from Frankfurt, so it'll be packed. It was fun playing Dr. Mario with Lark and Rhys. What a buzz. Good-looking guys on base! We went to the Volksfest for a while. Not very big, but the kids loved it. It was a nice day today. I went out to the park with the kids earlier. I'm starting to have doubts about quitting my doubts about quitting my job and traveling extensively. I'd have to do it with someone, I think. Someone who's very free-spirited. Must keep a positive attitude towards it. It can be done. This is a very quite station. I can't see anyone else. Very eerie. I wish I had filled up my wineskin with water before leaving. Everything's closed here. I tried calling Becky, but the MCI number has been busy. Probably a lot of GIs calling home. I hope everything's okay with Dingo. I try not to worry -- actually, I rarely think of it! Just when I see other dogs. Ten minutes until the train's here.

7:30 pm

Some of the characters I've met: Sue, an Australian who is traveling around the world for 3 years. She's hitting every continent and will work for a time in the U.K. and the States. She was one of the "Hofbraühaus-ers." Scotty, from New York, attends Webster University -- with campuses in London and the Netherlands. He's traveling between semesters. He plans to travel in a musical circus-like troupe through the USSR and China. Veronica, from Houston, is traveling through Germany with Britta, from Mainz. Their fathers met in WWII and the families have remained close. Greg, from St. Louis, travels to wherever he can get a cheap night's sleep. We were all at the Hofbraühaus last night. What a rowdy place. One liter steins (3 cans equivalent) for DM7.90. Not cheap, but huge -- and fun. The waitresses really do carry 10 of them at a time! It's a fun place, but probably 80% American. The real fun was getting back to the hostel. Greg passed around a hash joint. After I hit it, he said, "This is Europe. You don't take just one hit!" So I took another. I was flying. Somehow we all made it back. Of course we didn't pay for the U-Bahn. Nobody does. Or so he said. Greg was teaching Britta to say, with her German accent, "Y'all come back now, y'hear?" and "Yo bitch, two more beers." I'm glad I went. A few of us stayed up and talked in the hall until 1:30 am. I called Matt, too! I'll bet he enjoyed it. I do wish Neil had come. He's not really the party type. Quite by chance, I ran into him on the way to the train station this morning and he came to Dachau with me. It was a terribly cold and rainy day. Appropriate for the setting, though. It was a very intense tour. I'm so glad Neil was there. I enjoyed spending the day with him. I wouldn't mind spending the night with him, too. I kept dropping hints. I asked if he had seen "Bent" about two gay men in Dachau. I commented on and took a picture of a gay memorial. No response. We spent an hour together waiting out the pouring rain -- in a crematorium. Very surreal. But it was so romantic with the rain and all. I wish something had happened. But we still had a good time. I love his smile! I'm in the dining hall now -- after a nap and a shower. I hope he comes by. I'm not sure what I'll do tonight. People are staying in. It's cold and wet. I'd like to just go wander around some more. I think I'll go to the Deutches Museum tomorrow. Science and Technology. I might go to Oberammergau also/instead. I'll be at Lark and Joe's tomorrow. So many decisions to make. Poland? Prague? Vienna? Greece? I need 9 months like everyone else!

9:00 am

On the Rhine River cruise. Too bad it's overcast. If it's too dreary, I may get off in Koblenz. I did stay at the Jundenherberge in Mainz. I met a guy named Scott from Louisville and Patrick from Sherbrooke, Quebec. We went into town last night and celebrated the Sommersnacht (or something) with thousands of others. Then it began to rain. And rain and rain. No coat this time. We all got so soaked, but it was definitely fun. Scott can be a real ugly American sometimes. But mostly, he's just assertive. I should take lessons. Anyway, I thought Mainz would be a sleepy little town and I would take it easy and get to bed early. Hah! We got on Bus 22 to go back to the hostel, but it was going the other way! We found out when it came to the end of the line and the driver told us to get out. He was pretty nice, though, when he figured out we were totally lost! He called us a taxi. Cost us DM2.50 each to take a bus to a taxi that cost DM23. We managed to get back to the hostel by closing time, though.

2:30 pm

The weather has improved somewhat. So has the company. I joined a trio of sorority girls playing cards. They're from Indiana University. It's so much nicer to meet up with people. Makes time pass -- not really faster, but better. The scenery along here really is beautiful. Castles all over the place! And cute little towns, as well as very touristy towns. This was such a good idea. My feet and knees are aching so bad. It's nice to have a day off. I'm thinking about going to Warsaw. Yes, Poland! Both Scott and this girl, Katie, are going. You no longer need a visa, so I could do it. Scott says it's so cheap, but I don't know. Man, wouldn't that be great? I should call Auntie Ann and find out where my relatives are! I'll think it over when I'm at Lark's. I could easily do it by cutting down Berlin and Venice to one day each. May be worth it! I hate having money be a determining factor, but I'm running so low. I'm spending too much. You know, people think that a month traveling is a lot, but I've met so many people traveling much longer. Two women from Australia have round-the-world airplane tickets (with four stops allowed) and are spending five months traveling. Scott is traveling three months, then will stay on in London working for 6 months. Patrick is traveling for an entire year! He'll be working in France picking grapes in September, then going down to Spain and Portugal for the winter! What fun! I could do that, you know. What an incredible experience it would be. There's so much more to life. Too many experiences waiting to be tried. I've got to learn some other languages. German would be helpful right now! That would make things even better. Why can't I be a linguist when I grow up? A traveling video linguist. Really, though. There are so many stories to be told from around the world. So many people, so many cultures, so many lifestyles.

6:00 pm

I'm so glad I made the decision to take the entire trip from Mainz to Cologne. Just the Koblenz-Cologne part can't compare! We're nearing the end of the day's voyage. Playing a bit more euchre and laughing about the Australians. These two Australian girls who I talked to earlier have just been sitting and writing for 9 hours! What could they be writing about? Not us, I'm sure. This was a wonderful, relaxing day. No hurry, no concerns. Just sitting and watching and taking it easy. A true vacation. I hope my feet and knees have recovered. Ashley, Katie and Paula are pretty fun. Still the sorority type, but cool. I'm glad they "took me in." I could've spent the whole day with the Australians instead! There's this great hotel on a cliff near Bad Godesberg. I'll have to go there when I'm rich!

11:15 pm

Such a wonderful day. We wandered around Cologne from 7 - 10 pm. Not much to do here. The cathedral is incredible, though. When you walk out of the train station, it looms above you. Not much pubbing going on, though. Not like Mainz, which was a party town last night. There were these two guys dressed as a bride and groom walking on stilts through the rain-soaked crowd. Anyway, now I'm at the Banhof waiting for an overnight to Munich. I don't think I can take the 11:36 because it only has sleeping cars and I'm too cheap to get one. The next train's at 12:48. I'll wait. I'm not tired anyway. I really haven't been tired much -- except after smoking!

1:00 am

I am not leaving this hotel again tonight! I called Matt, Eli and Richard! Yay! We were 6000 miles apart and still together. Yay! I guess it was 6:30 pm there. I told them I'm stoned in Amsterdam in the pouring fucking rain! Anyhow, I did try to go back to the C***ring. I walk by a cool bar on my street playing Bob Marley. I hesitate. I say, "Nah. Go on." So I walk ... in the pouring fucking rain!! I get not very far and turn back! "Give up," I say. "Go back to the Bob Marley." So I did. I had a drink. The place was full of locals -- speaking that Dutch stuff. The waitress was so loud! They were all talking and laughing. Me and this old guy were singing along with "Redemption Song." No barriers. So I'm sitting there, thinking that I have to go back to this other bar! I go out again. I walk and walk and walk in the P.F.R! I get lost AGAIN! I'm in the scary Red Light District. No map this time! I said get me out of here. I retraced my steps and got the hell out of that area. I mean, it was this dark, rainy, deserted street. I'm just toolin' down there with the word "Tourist" across my forehead! I was SCARED! I was PISSED! I was HIGH! I was LOST! I was the Little Match Girl! It was destined to happen -- found by Amsterdam police the next morning, his last match -- no, his Hamtramck lighter -- snuffed out by the rain. Vhat a country!

1:20 am

I'm trying to set my travel alarm clock, but it's fucking up. It keeps ringing when I turn it to "set alarm." I hope the neighbors aren't home! I'm still stoned. Now I'm thinking I should stay another day. I just wish the weather were nicer! I wouldn't mind staying. It's safer. It's a scary world out there! But I can do it! I RULE!

1:25 am

Traveling is so hard! You have a million decisions to make! I thought it'd be a vacation without a care -- without decisions. But there are so many! Where do I stay? Should I leave today? How will I pay for this? Should I buy that? Can I carry it? So much going on. Like in the square at the Dam. A great place.

11:30 am

Now this is the way to travel. First Class in a compartment by myself. Of course, I won't meet anyone this way! Perhaps I'll ride in 2nd class occasionally, but I do enjoy this time alone, watching the Dutch countryside. I'm on the way to Köln. I'll spend the day there, hopefully take a cruise on the Rhine, and take a night train to Berlin. Didn't write about Saturday night. I went to the April Bar, ran into Eamon and his Dutch friend, Jan. We drank and talked. Went to the Exit Bar and drank and talked. Eamon left at 3, then Jan and I danced a bit. Then I went home at 5:00 am. It's too bad I didn't see Eamon last night to get his address in London. But he'll be in Barcelona when I'm there. Who knows?

1:30 pm

Well, I had a bit of an adventure there. I got off at Duisdorf instead of Köln. Gotta keep an eye on the watch. Luckily, there was another train in 20 minutes. Nice little visit!

5:45 pm

On the train again. On the way to Mainz. I found out that I need to start in Mainz if I want the entire 9 hour Rhine cruise -- downstream. So I spent 2 hours in Köln and off again. I hope to find the Youth Hostel in Mainz. It's lovely looking across the river. An occasional castle is passed. Must look even better by boat. I hope the weather is like this tomorrow -- warm and partly sunny. Much better than Amsterdam! I really enjoy having this time to sit and think and write. In the midst of beauty.