2:10 pm

Well, I've reached my point of total frustration! I was trying to get a ticket from Krakow to Vienna. Found out that it would cost $35 -- quite a bit more than I expected. So I went to get more money exchanged. I thought $35 was for a couchette, but it's for just a ticket. I had only $30, because I though it would be less without a couchette. I went back later a third time. I had heard yesterday that the Eurailpass was now good in Poland and Czechoslovakia. Nobody knew. I finally just wanted to buy the $35 ticket, but they gave me a $2.50 ticket to the Polish border. If the Eurailpass isn't good in Czechoslovakia, I may be in trouble. Still, I can't imagine it would cost $35 to cross Czechoslovakia. Oh well. I was rather distraught at first, but now I'm over it. This is one of those unexpected misadventures. See what happens next! I'm sitting in the Krakow square next to a man who's yelling at passersby. Fun town. I never seem to dress for the weather. Today it's sunny and hot -- no shorts on, of course. And my stuff is at the station. I bought a chess set and want to mail it home, but I think it would be too hard to figure out. I managed to get to Wawel Hill today, but I blew off the salt mines. I was supposed to meet the New York couple there. I wish that Swede from last night wasn't going to Auschweitz today. I would've liked to hang around with him. He had such big, beautiful eyes! And very friendly. He said good-bye to me at 7:00 this morning as he was leaving and I was still in bed. I wonder what I can expect from Austria. I'll spend more, I'll bet. I just hope I get there without a hassle!

5:15 pm

Still in the square. They've set up a stage in front of the clock tower and some little kids in traditional costumes are singing songs. Very musical city, this Krakow. This could really be fun later on if there are real bands. What more could I ask for? I'm trying to figure out if I can go to Pamplona for the running of the bulls. It could work out after Barcelona. Last day is July 14, when I'd leave Barcelona anyway. Could be fun! I wish I had a video camera. These kids singing would be great for an international "Those Bloomin' Kids."

7:45 pm

This polka band playing in the square is playing "Melody of Love." Of course! These Poles sure love their ice cream -- lody. Everyone is eating it. There are stands all over the place. I'm bummed that there's not another band on the stage. What a waste. Getting nervous (again) about Czechoslovakia! I'm always so unprepared! Now, when I have nothing but time, I don't have my book, "It's Always Something" by Gilda Radner. It's a very good book. I'd enjoy reading it now, but that would mean going back to the station and getting my stuff out. I'd rather be in the square.

11:00 pm

Reflections of Poland. A country unprepared for mass tourism. When you get off the train at Osweicim, there are no signs or anything telling you how to get to the concentration camps. Very few people speak English. One woman at the market in Warsaw was freaked when I spoke English after she had been showing me her Soviet toys and explaining something in Polish. She looked at me as if I were from Mars! Even Warsaw is not prepared for tourists. Everything is so cheap, though. 15¢ for a rose! $3.50 for a pierogi and beer dinner at an Armenian restaurant. And traveling is incredible. I'd bet a trip across the entire country would be under $10. Maybe $8. Krakow to the border is $2.50. Hostels have co-ed rooms. Pretty dirty, though. And no toilet paper! Same with the trains. No paper towel, or no soap, or the water doesn't work. This is the first time I've listened to my music. It makes me feel happy and safe when I'm scared about Czechoslovakia!