9:15 am

This has been a hellacious trip. Of course, I didn't get much sleep last night on the train. I contorted my body into every possible position, but my back and knees were killing me! Then we got to Port Bou, Spain, where we had to go through customs and change trains. They herded us into an underground tunnel to go under the tracks. Then we were stuck there -- in this 60 foot long tunnel. Everyone loaded down with backpacks and luggage. Some were smoking. It was horrible. I kept thinking of the Who concert in Cincinnati. Potential for disaster. Then the lights go out! Luckily, nobody panicked. What a stupid, dangerous situation. We were waiting to go through customs. It took over 45 minutes, standing in this crowded, smoky tunnel. Then I got on the train to Barcelona, but it doesn't arrive until 10:20 am, and it's not at the station near the Youth Hostel. This'll be great!

3:30 pm

Incredible fishy things at the market near Las Ramblas. Huge fish heads, turkey heads (skinned), live crabs and lobsters, as well as the usual fruits, vegetables, and meat. It looks like there's a lot to do in this city. Should I stay three nights? We'll see. Depends on if I meet someone. I'd like to get to the beach and see the night life, too. The hostel was hard to find. I was given directions to the nearest metro stop, then I was on my own. An awfully nice old man gave me directions. I was out and about less than an hour after arriving!

11:30 am

Maybe there's more of a breeze. Maybe it's just a cooler day, but it doesn't seem as hot here on the beach in Nice as it was in Menton. Another gorgeous day. I was going to go parasailing, but I don't think I will now. It's too hazy. I can do that back home, too, with some people which would make it more fun. I'm thinking of spending some time at the casino in Monte Carlo, though. I'd like to see Cannes, too. I got a good exchange rate on $100 on my MasterCard. So I'll treat myself to something. I didn't eat supper again last night. No money! Had a beer again instead. There aren't those guys selling "7-up-up-up-up-up," Coca-cola, and Orangina on the beach as I remember seven years ago. If I do this traveling thing, I should look into a motorcycle. It would be much easier to get around. Perhaps cheaper than the train, but maybe not. There is an absolutely wonderful French man laying next to me -- with his two small kids. He is gorgeous. Not so much the face, but the body.

7:00 pm

All right! I'm at the Nice Jazz Festival. "Grande Parade du Jazz." It took a long time for me to walk (and get lost) here. And I'm so bummed that I have to leave at 9:30 - just as the Andy Summers band starts. Shit! The 23:32 train to Barcelona that I had planned to take doesn't start operation until tomorrow night! How stupid! So now I have to take the 22:20 -- much too early! What can I do? I need to get to Barcelona tonight. Another adventure starts tomorrow! It's like a brand new life. In a new world! Time to make it or break it! Mary Tyler Moore -- Mary Richards! I have to get a cool Nice Jazz Festival t-shirt. I'm having so much fun. Oh yeah, I'm high! On the French Riviera! In a beautiful park, listening to jazz -- 3 choices! There are all sorts of people here. Old Niceans, young Americans, sophisticated French women, Italian jazz-lovers. It's everything. I can hear the other band in the distance. I wish this one would start. I like recording this. Journalism. I just wish it weren't so darn hot. So sweaty. Hot jazz!

8:50 pm

C'est magnifique! I met Emeline Michel, who was one of the performers earlier. She's from Haiti and does some great stuff. Good music with African dance added. This is a great festival. And the headliners haven't even started. It's okay that I'll miss them. It's been so fantastic already! It's such a more intimate (and safer) atmosphere than Detroit's Montreaux. There's a little of everything here. Some great horns! Some great food, too! I had eaten before, so I wouldn't have to pay expensive prices here. Oh well. After stuffing myself with fettuccini carbonara earlier, I had a Gran Marnier crepe and a native Nice dish -- mashed chick peas with olive oil and spices rolled out and fried in a wood-burning stove. Great stuff. I want a Belgian waffle, but I'd explode.

11:45 pm

I had to stay to see Andy Summer's band. I refused to be a slave to time. I was watching the Jazz Futures Band at 9:00, thinking I really should leave soon. They were so good. All the bands were fantastique! I'm so glad I got high so I could enjoy it even more. But I had to see Andy Summers! He was to start at 9:30. My train was to leave at 10:20 -- loading at 10:00. It took me 45 minutes to walk to the park -- I did get lost and had to walk uphill, though. The buses were running, but only sporadically. I had just spent my last coins on water, so I needed change for the bus. At 9:25, I got a beer, so I'd have change, went to the arena stage, and waited. And waited. Of course they were late. I kept thinking, "Come on, come on!" My knees were killing me, too. I thought, "I don't care if I have to run all the way to the station and kill my knees and feet. I'm staying!" They finally came on. 9:45, I think. I listened to one song and I left! And I ran. I ran and ran. I stopped at a bus stop. Next bus -- 10:05. Wouldn't work! I had to get my baggage out of left luggage still! I kept running. I was sweating like crazy. It was probably still 80°. I was soaked! I kept running. "I have to make that train!" What would I do if I didn't? I thought I could maybe just take a train to somewhere so I could sleep. Or I could sleep on the beach. NO! I was going to make that train, dammit! I kept running. I didn't dare slow down to look at my watch. "The train will be late anyway -- it's coming from Rome." I had to stop occasionally to look at my map. All odds were against me. A mad dash through the steamy streets of Nice. I got to the station at 10:08. The train was already there -- on time! I still needed to get my baggage. Success! I got to the platform at 10:15. But I still needed to find First Class because Second Class was very crowded and rowdy Spaniards or Italians -- I don't know which -- were hanging out the windows, singing and drinking. First Class was all the way down -- of course! I got there -- it was pretty crowded as well. I finally got the sixth -- and last -- seat in a compartment. Very uncomfortable, but I made it. Now I don't want to talk to these people. Here I barge in on them, a sweaty, smelly pig, having to climb over everyone and pile my luggage on theirs. What an oaf. I’m a smelly, sweaty oaf!

7:00 pm

Just when things seem at their worst... I meet some more nice people! I got to Menton at about 8:30 pm. Three guys looked like they were Interrailers, so I joined with them to try to find the hostel. Good thing. It was very hard to find. And I had no francs, the exchange was closed. And the hostel was full -- after climbing a mountain with full rucksacks. Well, we were out in a tent. Paul offered to sleep on the floor, Andrew paid for me, Andreas loaned me 50 francs for dinner and beer! They were so nice! Paul and Andrew are from Yorkshire. Andreas is from Stuttgart. They saved me from a very tragic night! I didn't eat because I felt bad spending Andreas' money. Bread, water, dried fruit and beer is all I had all day. Today we went to the beach. For lunch, we got some fruit, croquettes and pizza. I love French pizza. They make it the best -- the crust is flaky or something. It was so hot in the sun. The water was beautiful. I actually did quite a bit of swimming -- for me. Swam out to a platform with the guys, but I was exhausted. I really need to improve my swimming skills. And my climbing skills! Walking up to this hostel is very exhausting! But the view is breathtaking. The Mediterranean Sea in front, mountains to the right and rear. I went to Nice late this afternoon. Bought a ticket to the Nice Jazz Festival tomorrow night. $20 -- I hope it's worth it. I'll take the 11:30 pm train to Barcelona. I'm thinking of parasailing tomorrow morning. $33 -- worth it? Many of my friends back home will be on their way to white water rafting tomorrow. I'd like to see Monte Carlo and Cannes, too.

10:00 am

I hate meeting people, having a great time with them, and then leaving them -- without even getting an address or a proper good-bye. This is what I hate about traveling alone. I already miss Mark, Linda, Karen and Brandy -- my Florentine friends. I didn't even get a picture of them! I had to dash to get this train, so I didn't say good-bye to Mark. He was so nice, So were "the girls." So often, things just don't work out. I'd like to join up and travel with people, but they're going another route. I'm glad I stayed two nights in Florence. Last night, a group of Spaniards was singing and playing guitar, drinking. Mark and I sang along when we could. After Mark went off to bed, Linda came up and we danced to "The Bird." What fun. Wonderful friends who I'll never see again! How depressing! Mark and I went to the museums yesterday. Very expensive -- 10,000 lira each ($7.50) But the David statue is so incredible. We had lunch in the Boboli gardens -- after running into the girls at the Vivoli Gelateria, which serves "the best" gelati in the world. We came back to the hostel at 4:30 -- hoping to go back out to the American Express office, but we took showers and naps instead, then had dinner at the hostel. After dinner, Mark and I walked to the stadium in search of a Communist festival, but it was over. Partied at the hostel from 9:30 - 11:30. Florence is beautiful, but hot. And not very active in the evening. Motor bikes are everywhere! I'm surprised there aren't more accidents. the sight of the red tiled roofs from the Duomo is incredible. Mark is a vocalist. He's going to music school in Manchester next year. Works at the theater in Leicester. Very attractive -- or did I mention that? Nice personality.

Some needs for future travels: good sandals, learn German, research more beforehand work on assertiveness, stay at hostels more, watch with band. More thoughts: the peaks and valleys that you encounter emotionally can really be distressing. Great highs, tremendous lows! I was glad to meet a Swedish woman, traveling alone, who said she got depressed. Mark said he doesn't.

1:00 pm

Things I've learned: More understanding of the homeless. The pain of trying to find a place to sleep, not having roots, carrying all you own. The stares from people, especially children, when you speak a "foreign" language. How must foreigners in the States feel? I met two Torontonians at the Tourist Info office in Pisa and walked with them to the tower. They were really nice -- Jeff and Steve. The tower is pretty impressive to see. I'm going right on to Menton, France tonight. Not spending the day in Milano and taking an overnight.

4:15 pm

A little too exciting. These darn Italian trains. My train to Genova was late, of course, so I had to run to just barely make my connecting train. Luckily, it was at the next binario. But now I can't spend my last 3500 lira. And I have no French francs. Not good when I'm getting into Menton after 8 pm. I hope there's a cambio open and the hostel isn't full! The Italian seaside is beautiful!

6:30 pm

It was really tragic leaving Mark. We had boarded the bus, not talking beforehand because he went down to get his washing. I never told him that I was going to try for the 10:00 train, so I was getting off at the station. He got off at the Duomo -- our eyes met through the window. His questioning why I wasn't getting off. We waved. That was it!

8:30 am

In Florence. I had a really good day yesterday. I met some girls from California on the train. We wandered over to the Youth Hostel together. There, I met this guy, Mark, from Leicester, England. Another cute Brit! We went to town together. Went to the Duomo, up top where you can see the whole city and beyond. Breathtaking -- literally. 439 steps! Then we just wandered. It was nice. Everything's closed on Monday, so we walked and walked. Towards evening, we were looking for a place to have a beer. Not to be found. No outdoor cafes here. So we walked around some more. Tried to find the action. Finally, we got on a bus for the hostel, thinking that we could jump off if we found a place -- and we did. It was a small place with only one other person, but it was the real Firenze. Then we wandered, hoping to remember the way to the hostel, when we came across a gelateria. We had to have some more! We managed to find the hostel again -- and that's where the action was! They were selling beer -- much cheaper than in the bars -- and people were hanging out, talking. Talked with a British couple who had just been in Yugoslavia, where the Slovenians had just revolted. It was so cool to talk to people who were there and not just read about it. Traveling is fantastic. I hope Mark and I have fun touring the museums.

7:45 am

Yay, I don't have to wear long pants anymore. I again made the wrong decision on a very hot and sweaty day in Vienna. But last night I changed into shorts on the train and I'm not taking them off! I had a pretty restful sleep in the couchette. I met three Canadian girls. Last night, in the Stephensdom Square, I met a guy from Edmonton who was going to an outdoor Mozart opera film. I joined him. It was good to go, although I could only stay an hour in order to catch my train. Had I known what Vienna was like, I would've stayed. But it is expensive. Almost to Venice now. I had been in the square for some time last evening and it looked like a heavy cruising area. There was a really attractive guy sitting next to me. We kept looking at each other, but of course, I didn't make any moves. Then this other American did and he ended up talking with him for at least an hour. Probably slept with him! Gotta get some guts.

7:40 pm

I like Venice. People told me it's doable in a day. But I think I'll spend another night, although I am spending $32 at a hotel. It's a nice treat. Big room, big bed. I did my laundry this morning -- but no shower. The sink and bidet are enough. It was very hot and sunny today. I took a vaporetto to the Lido -- the beach -- and hung out there a while. That's what I can do tomorrow! Then I went to Piazza San Marco and walked back to my hotel by the train station. This is an expensive treat, but worth it. And they take MasterCard! Maybe I can shop tomorrow, too. That puts me in Florence on Tuesday -- good, because everything's closed on Monday. I love the people high up in the apartments just watching the world go by their window. Life from a window!

11:50 pm

I'm really depressed. Here I am in Venice, the most romantic city in the world, and I'm all alone. I haven't taken the initiative to meet anyone. That pisses me off! When am I going to take charge? I have in many ways, but not in meeting people. It should be so easy. I find it easier at the Youth Hostel. I don't think I'll get in at Florence. Well, I should at least try, god damn it! Enough of this pessimism. Remember Maude! Now I want to go on to Florence tomorrow. I was thinking of running away to Greece, but I think not. Too far.

8:00 am

Success! I RULE CZECHOSLOVAKIA! I was happy when only two of us were in the compartment. The girl was Yugoslavian. When the inspector came around, I showed him my ticket and he said, "Zbrodowice?" as if, "Why are you going there?" I explained (in Pig Latin Polish sign language) that my Eurailpass covered the rest of the trip. Fine. Then, as we get to the border, my nerves are on edge, although I had been keeping myself busy by reading. The Czechs came in -- one by one -- inspecting passports. After an hour's wait, we crossed the border. This time, more Czechs got on and thoroughly inspected the train -- they asked me to put my seat upright. It was stuck, but I finally managed and they looked under it. In the next cabin, they were knocking on the walls and ceiling. They knocked on the ceiling all the way through the train. It was 1 am. Finally, we continued our journey -- nobody had asked about the tickets. I felt better, but I knew it was still coming. My stomach was churning. I tried to sleep, but couldn't. At 2:30 am, there was a pound at the door and someone came in to inspect tickets. I was taken by surprise. I fumbled for my Eurailpass and gave it to him without even looking at him -- trying to be nonchalant, but feeling like I was giving myself away. He said thank you and gave it right back! What a relief! That was it! I had won! I was still so wired that I barely slept -- maybe 2 hours total. Crossing the Austrian border was a snap. No one has ever checked my bags. Luckily. Now I'm in Vienna for 15 hours. Time to explore! Very expensive here -- I paid $3 for a danish and tea that would have cost 50¢ in Poland! But I've reserved my couchette for Venice (no more train tickets - yay) and I'm ready to go!

2:00 pm

I'm sitting in the huge courtyard of Schloss Shönberg, overlooking Vienna. Very beautiful. This is a wonderful city. Very clean, very easy to get around, very accommodating to tourists and very picturesque. It's another warm and sunny day. There's a great breeze blowing up here. I'm getting so crazed, though. I'm trying to think of ways I can still do everything, including Switzerland. It just won't work. If I travel overnight constantly, I won't meet people in hostels. I should stay 2 nights in Venice. We'll see what happens. Vienna is very expensive. I can't buy or do much at all.